BLASTER CARB PROBLEMS
#11
Rob, try removing the snorkel on the air box. This made a world of differance on mine. You will like the change. Play with the needle some more. When I dropped mine it ran terrible put it back in the stock and runs great. After you remove the snorkel check the main jet again. That 250 main should not be that rich. I run a 280 here in Iowa and it only builds up alittle on 90 plus days with high humidity. Never so bad that it fouled the plug.
Nova, that air mixture screw on the side of the carb should be at 1 1/2 turns out. I would personally not go past 2 because you risk the chance of leaning it out and everyone knows what happens to a 2 stroke that is lean.
Nova, that air mixture screw on the side of the carb should be at 1 1/2 turns out. I would personally not go past 2 because you risk the chance of leaning it out and everyone knows what happens to a 2 stroke that is lean.
#14
The floats are stuck. If you can tap on the outside of the carb with a screwdriver and get it to quit, that's the problem.
If this is the case, remove the carb bowl and clean the floats and the rod they ride on.
If it's just piddling a little fuel, it's probably the needle and seat (this opens and closes depending on the float position). In that case, remove the floats, take out the needle, clean it (don't use anything harsh like a brillo pad) and also clean the area it sits in (the seat). I like to use a q-tip with carb cleaner on it for the seat.
If this is the case, remove the carb bowl and clean the floats and the rod they ride on.
If it's just piddling a little fuel, it's probably the needle and seat (this opens and closes depending on the float position). In that case, remove the floats, take out the needle, clean it (don't use anything harsh like a brillo pad) and also clean the area it sits in (the seat). I like to use a q-tip with carb cleaner on it for the seat.
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