I have re-jetted my Warrior and was told to do a 'plug-chop'. ride for 1 mile at 1/2 throttle and then hit the kill switch, pull in the clutch and coast to a stop. Then check the plug...It should be a light tan color.

I was just wondering what other colors I might see and what they mean. I hope it comes out perfect, but with my luck something will have to be changed.

Any and all help appreciated.

 

White/Gray = lean/ hot mixture( too much air, not enough gas) will run HOT
Black/Soot = rich mixure (too much fuel, not enogh air)
Tan/brown = proper mixture

 

You do a plug-chop depending on which part of the throttle setting/range you want to check for a rich/lean condition. For instance, if you changed the jet needle adjustment, then run it between 1/2 - 3/4 throttle under a slight load for 1/2 a mile or so, and then do the plug-chop and check the condition of the plug. If you changed the main jet, then you run it a WOT under the same conditions before doing the chop. I've found it's best to start with the main and get it set correctly (light tan), and then work on the midrange (1/4 - 3/4 throttle). As far as idle to 1/4 throttle, you can bump up the pilot jet a size or two (depending on its cold running characteristics), but depending on the mod's this range isn't usually affected all that much. When I had my Warrior though, I found that the lower end was set up from the factory rather rich, as well as the jet needle adjustment for the midrange. I ran a WB E-Series Pro Meg pipe with a better foam filter and vented airbox lid, and only had to rejet the main.

 

you have it right..almost. If you are testing a rejet on the main jet, you need to do your test from at least 3/4 throttle to full throttle, not necessarily in top gear. Throttle position is the key, not speed. At 1/2 throttle you would still be on the needle jet, which controls fuel flow from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle. Since these numbers are not precise in all circumstances there is sometimes some overlap, so to make sure you get an accurate reading of the main jet air/fuel mix you need to run at higher throttle for the test.
I can see no reason for coasting to a stop after killing the engine except to save brake wear.
Also, for an accurate reading a new plug should be used so as not to contaminate your reading with previous coloration, and read not only the electrode, but the insulator down inside the plug.