I've seen some pretty sweet paint jobs on this site so I know some guys are really good at this. Whats the best way to paint plastic? I tried to use that krylon fusion stuff. IT SUCKS. Its not that it chips off its that you can remove it with a figure nail. Also don't paint a gas tank with it, first drop of gas on that paint and you can wipe all that paint off with a rag. So, whats the best way to do this, for both fenders and gas tanks. Thanks

 

use a plastic adhesion promotor ...check with a local 3m dealer or i use ppg products

 

automotive paint, in a professional paint booth, using professional automotive products designed for plastic bumpers.

 

Wow, I did not have that problem with the Fusion at all!

I painted by neighbors KX250, it had blue and black plastic, we painted it all green. We also painted a sample piece and I tried to scratch it off, and yea it scratched but not with a fingernail......

Maybe you needed to do more coats? I admit you cannot paint with it like regular spray on metal. You have to do several light coats like you are air brushing, you cannot cover it with thick coats.

But it worked great for me.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, keep em coming

 

I am in the process of painting my 300ex and the key to painting plastic is prep. It has to be prepped right in order to get the paint to stick. I first sanded the plastic with 180 grit and then wetsanded with 400grit. After sanding I used a adhesive promoter and used duplicolor paints and clear coat. I also tried the krylon fusion without success but I also didnt put much work into the prep like I did this time around. Now the paint is sticking and not scratching or chipping off.

 

yes the gas will take the paint off of the plastic....

but there is this thing called CLEAR COAT it seals the paint so that the paint does not chip or get messed up....

if you clear coat your paint it will not flake off with your finger nail or when you spill one drop of gas on the paint....

and plus it will make the paint job look a lot better....

 

heat your plastics thats what i did i used regular cans of spray paint and a heat gun heat the plaatic then spray it fuzes the paint to the plastic but you have to be carefull not heat it to much or youll burn the plastics of coarse

 

If you do it right,it will cost some bucks. Its a process done in steps.

 

What paints to use: Automotive paint for plastic bumpers is great, but usually comes in a can that requires an airbrush/gun and compressor. If you don't have access to this, you could use krylon fusion... I haven't, but I've heard good things from people that I know to be good painters. What I use is more expensive, but it is really fantastic. Lexan/plastic paints are really great. They are very elastic, so you can bend the hell out of the panel, and it's won't crack (if painted correctly.) You can get them on the internet or at virtually any hobby store that has RC stuff. I always used Testor's brand paint, which has always worked very well for me. There is another brand that makes a really great chrome if you are doing pinstriping or have a metal fetish. It goes on in 2 thin coats (instead of 3) and has INSANE looking chrome. I have a picture of the body with it somewhere... I can't find it. Here is one of my favorite paint jobs."MY 60mph Half-8"

I used to paint a lot of lexan and hard plastics, and the method I used was:
* keep the plastic warm (not hot or it can cause cracks. a heat gun is too hot. just use a blow dryer.) When the solivent in the paint evaporates, it causes the plastic to become very cool. This is why using a heat gun to dry the paint is a bad idea. It will almost always cause heat variations which will cause problems. If you get the paint too hot, it will cause the solivent under the paint to bubble instead of evaporating on the outside. Room temperature drying is ideal, but takes WAY too long for us wanting to ride.
* clean with a degreaser and rinse clean. Dry. Then use alcohol to prep the areas to be painted. This will take out any oil or water left over. Let it dry. The best alcohol I've ever found to use is MG Chemical 99.953% pure anhydrous alcohol. It doesn't cloud most plastics and it drys completely and extremely quickly. You NEED ventalation to use this stuff. It can mess with your lungs hardcore.
* if it's not painted (dyed plastic), just use 400 grit sandpaper to dry sand the surface
* if it *IS* painted, remove the paint with 60 grit, then 400 grit dry sand till it has a smooth texture.
* apply 1 VERY thin coat of paint or primer. Primer is rarely needed unless you are doing a seriously crazy paint job (especially metalics/chrome)
* The first layer of paint will be visible, but very translucent and dry very quickly (without a blow dryer) always let it dry completely before doing another coat. ALWAYS.
* apply a regular (still somewhat thin) coat after it's dry and use the blowdryer on low speed to help that panel dry
* apply a final regular coat and blowdry it

Here is where it gets tricky. Clearcoat is a must, but using the right kind of clearcoat is also extremely important. If you use a non-flex clearcoat, it will start cracking/flaking sooner or later and maybe take the paint with it. Check a hobby store or the internet for fuel resistant clearcoat (sometimes called top coat) made for lexan and plastic (which means it has elastic properties)

You have two schools of thought on clearcoat. One is to let your final coat dry completely (takes 8-24 hours unless you did too thick of a coat, or didn't let it dry between coats) and wetsand it with an ultra fine paper before doing clearcoat. The other option is to let the surface harden, but the paint not completely cure (1 hour) and then start your first coat of clearcoat which will act as a solvent on the top layer of the paint making it bond (prevents flaking.) You do clearcoat in the same manor as the other paint with thin coats, the first coat being VERY thin.

Clearcoat is a pain in the *** sometimes because if you get it on too thick, it will not only leave runs, but it will be translucent yellow/white which will make all your hard work on the paintjob look like crap. If this does happen, it's not the end of the world. Let it completely dry and cure (can take many days) your going to have to do a lot of wet sanding with high grit paper in circles to take off the cleatcoat. then even the layers of clearcoat as best you can. This can require wet sanding between coats of clearcoat to get perfect.

This is my very **** way of painting (I've done too many bodies to count), and if you don't want to spend the time on it, take it to a paint shop. Having a nice looking X color quad is better than a crappy looking Y color quad, even if Y is your favorite.

Luckily, I have a kid near my house with a pro auto paint studio that loves to practice on people's stuff (he is really good with an airbrush) and will do it for the cost of supplies (probably close to $100 for thinner, hardener, clearcoats, metalics/pearls and base.

-JNY