TRAILBLAZER PROBLEM
#13
<< ....it sit most of the time .its my wifes . >>
The same thing happened to my wife's TB. She rode infrequently and I did not put stabilizer in the gas and run it through before a long sitting period.
This is most likely the problem, varnish deposits have built up in the jets and orifices in the carb. soaking will not clean them out, I tried that. You have to remove the carb and completely dissasemble it take out the main, needle, and pilot jets and clean them and all the orafices with carb cleaner and small pipe cleaners. look at the bottom of the bowl and the tip of the jet needle, if you can see deposits there(it will look like a bronze or coffee colored deposit) you have it everywhere. Good luck and PLEASE remember to run stabil through it after you get it all cleaned and you store it again.
#14
before i sold my trailblazer and got a 400ex i used to have the same problem it turned out that my trailblazer was very fussy about having the yellow filter cleaned and oiled all the time that was what my problem try it and see if it works you can clean it with something like kerosene but filter cleaner is best let me know if this helps ok
#15
thanks everyone for your help!is it possibil it could be a combanation of all of these things.carb needing cleaned ,stabil,not being run,& the seal the size of the pencil,which i dont remeber seeing.can some one tell me how to take the 2 cables off on the carb ?wheres the best place to dis conect them,thanks again
#16
Take out the airbox first, it is in the way when you want to remove the carb.
The cable to the slide (the one that is on top of the carb) is removed by screwing off the top of the carb. Be careful that there is no binding of the slide spring as you screw the top off (do not force it once it starts unscrewing). The slide with spring and needle will come out together. To take the needle out of the slide you have to compress the spring and remove the cable stay out of it's seat, this is the tricky part when putting back together, just watch what you are doing, there is a locking plate for the cable where the spring and slide meet. look at how it is seated before you remove it.
The other cable removed with a 8mm(I think) wrench. Just unscrew the brass nut and pull out the cable from the carb.
Just take your time, look at everything good before you remove stuff and you will be fine. I did mine when i never done it before and it was a piece of cake.
As soon as you pull the slide out look at the needle tip, if there is varnish deposits you will have to remove the carb like I said and dissasemble. If you go there you will need a real small screwdriver to remove the jets (Main & pilot).
The cable to the slide (the one that is on top of the carb) is removed by screwing off the top of the carb. Be careful that there is no binding of the slide spring as you screw the top off (do not force it once it starts unscrewing). The slide with spring and needle will come out together. To take the needle out of the slide you have to compress the spring and remove the cable stay out of it's seat, this is the tricky part when putting back together, just watch what you are doing, there is a locking plate for the cable where the spring and slide meet. look at how it is seated before you remove it.
The other cable removed with a 8mm(I think) wrench. Just unscrew the brass nut and pull out the cable from the carb.
Just take your time, look at everything good before you remove stuff and you will be fine. I did mine when i never done it before and it was a piece of cake.
As soon as you pull the slide out look at the needle tip, if there is varnish deposits you will have to remove the carb like I said and dissasemble. If you go there you will need a real small screwdriver to remove the jets (Main & pilot).
#17
thanks one dollar,is there a book i can buy to help me out,my wife just had a baby ,& we really cant afford to take it to a dealer,espically around here ,one place wants 75 an hour,not sure about the other one though.have you had this problem before ?is it a common two stroke problem?
thanks,
thanks,
#19
Didn't recall a washer being on the main jet. I did the work by just looking at the parts manual which is a free download (in pdf form) at http://www.polarisindustries.com/pro...pe=manualYears
carb schematic does not show a washer between carb and main jet.
These manuals are for the 2000 and 2001 models. I don't know which you have but the carb is probably the same if it's older (can always check with dealer or polaris)
Just follow the links to the trailblazer and print on your local printer (it's about 60 pages). I then copied it doublesided and bought clear inserts that had 3-ring binder holes and made a parts book for reference.
It doesn't tell you how to take it abart but gives you exploded views and part numbers in case you have to order something.
While your at it check the inside of your airbox near the intake to the carb. If you see a crack (this has happened to some members including mine) you need to epoxy it up because outside air is entering the clean side if the airbox (this can cause a lean condition and blubbering also). The rubber bumper on the outside of the airbox (that rests on the tranny) mounts on a plastic post. To fix it pull off the rubber bumper and snip the post in half and put the rubber bumper back on then epoxy poth sides of the crack.
good luck
$1
carb schematic does not show a washer between carb and main jet.
These manuals are for the 2000 and 2001 models. I don't know which you have but the carb is probably the same if it's older (can always check with dealer or polaris)
Just follow the links to the trailblazer and print on your local printer (it's about 60 pages). I then copied it doublesided and bought clear inserts that had 3-ring binder holes and made a parts book for reference.
It doesn't tell you how to take it abart but gives you exploded views and part numbers in case you have to order something.
While your at it check the inside of your airbox near the intake to the carb. If you see a crack (this has happened to some members including mine) you need to epoxy it up because outside air is entering the clean side if the airbox (this can cause a lean condition and blubbering also). The rubber bumper on the outside of the airbox (that rests on the tranny) mounts on a plastic post. To fix it pull off the rubber bumper and snip the post in half and put the rubber bumper back on then epoxy poth sides of the crack.
good luck
$1
#20
thanks again one dollar but ,i got some questions for you?should i drain the gas first,if so how (the easiest way)is the carb real difficult to take apart,is there anything i should becareful about(like bending or breaking something?i got carb cleaner& a thing of stabil already.i appreciate your help & time.i also down loaded the manual already.how far should i tear it apart?& how long should i soak it?thank you


