I am starting from scratch building up a toolset for maintenance and mods to my new ATV. I bought a 207 piece sears mechanics set to start. I also bought a Moose ATV Lift.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a modern timing light/gun for use with a 650 Rotax 4-stroke engine?

How about a decent torque wrench. I almost bought a sears one with "psuedo-digital" readout, but the readout was on the handle, covered by your hand, which seemed odd.

Where would I buy some sort of grease gun to grease the chain & chassis?

I plan on buying the service manual when it is available. Are they all you need or should I suplement it with a Mikuni Carb Tuning Book such as http://store.yahoo.com/amsnow-mall/cartunhan.html or http://www.sudco.com/mikuni.html?

Anything else I should consider buying? How about a tachometer?

Thanks.

 

I have a craftsman torque wrench. All you have to do is set the torque that you watn and then it will start clicking when it reaches that torque. Yes, you do need to get a grease gun to grease all of the grease zerks.

 

Bombardier provides a rather comprehensive tool set for the Traxter (as OEM tool sets go); don't know about your machine, or how far you want to go in maintenanace and modification. Here are some ideas you might consider.

As a minimum, you need an impact screwdriver and bits (hand-held, hammer operated); for stubborn seized steel screws in aluminum cases; you'll also need an impact wrench (electric minimum; air-pressure better (I'd suggest a 5 hp compressor and 25-gallon tank or bigger)), for removing and reassembling shaft nuts for clutch removal, etc.; BTW get a set of black steel sockets (both deep and regular) for this baby; your Craftsman chrome jobbies may be lifetime-guaranteed, but the Sears clerk will frown when you bring back too many sockets split by the impact wrench's torque (get some black sockets big enough for the hub nuts while you're at it).

Since you're into high performance, a magnifying precision spark plug gapper's probably a good idea. You'll need valve spring compressors for serious engine work, a reciprocating valve face and seat lapper's useful, piston ring compressors might be necessary if you get really serious, and you'll need a good micrometer or precision outside caliper for measuring your cam lobe profile.

Regarding the grease gun, does your quad have lots of Zerks? If not, I don't know what you'd grease with it.

A torque wrench gives some professional confidence to some operations; no need to make it a religion in others; the way-cool torque wrenches that give visual, audible, and tactile indicators when pre-set torque is reached make my heart sing (although they left out taste and smell stimuli), even better if they're digital, I guess.

By all means you need a compression tester; you should get one with a screw-in spark plug hole connector, you'll likely need an adapter for the weird ATV-size plugs; you want one with the holding valve for preserving readings.

Definitely get a low-pressure tire gauge; again, one with a hose and a valve that preserves the reading.

A volt-ohn-ampmeter, preferably a digital auto-ranging one, will come in handy, as well as a reasonably high-wattage soldering iron, an electrical connection termination crimping tool and assorted connectors; don't forget a sack of assorted-length nylon wire-ties.

Not exactly a tool, but a main-jet caddy'll come in handy, and yes: get whatever manuals you can.

Vise-grip pliers, in a range of sizes, work wonders (I don't think they're included in your Sears set, but I assume you have needle-nose, diagonal-cutting, slip-joint, and grooved "parrot-head" pliers already). Likewise, some ball-peen hammers, cold chisels and punches.

You mention timing light; one of the inductive ones should work well, along with an inductive pickup tachometer. Some clear plastic hose lets you check your carburetor float level while mounted on the quad; you may want to buy a float level gauge for convenience. You'll need a good scale or caliper for measuring the float level height when you disassemble the carb.

Importantly, you'll need snap-ring pliers; be sure they work in both internal and external tension modes.

Get a magnetic pick-up tool, maybe a "grab-it" retriever also.

You probably already have a good electric drill and bits, pressure washer, etc., around already; with your Sears set, lift, and the goodies on this list, you're off to a good start. More tools will occur to you as you get into the machine; buy 'em! Good tools are a lifetime investment, if you don't lose 'em.

I get lots of enjoyment doing some of my own maintenance, modification and repair, learning valuable lessons even from disasters I create! I believe working on quads expands their "play-value" beyond riding alone (although, caught in a tight spot of my own creation, as in searching for scattered small parts on the shop floor, I don't always feel this way, immeiately!).
Good luck!

Tree Farmer

P.S. Although not exactly an ATV maintenance tool, a Moto-tool and accessories, especially those cut-off wheels, often makes itself useful.

T.F.

 

Yeah, I know errors exist in my post above; however, the "EDIT" function doesn't work; we must live with them! I apologize.

Tree Farmer

 

May I add, One kick but peg-board for the garage.(tool shadow painted)
One, Or Two each, Of every "Knipex" hand tool you can find.(the absolute best)
One, Uranium p-236 expansive space modulator, Edition 5.


Hey,
That, Hit submit.....then back button.....then refresh "trick". Works pretty good....For site speed.

 

I recommend:

The proper flywheel puller for your model. Don't try to use a generic 3 pronger type.

A Motion Pro clutch tool. It looks like a visegrips with long jaws for gripping clutch bosses or even sprockets.

A small hydraulic press. I got one for about $100 from Harbor Freight tools. It is a 12 ton model and works great for pressing in/out bearings, cranks etc...

A huge crescent wrench. One big enough to fit on the large axle nut (if you have one) Using a pipe wrench will just make it ugly.
Also, you can sometimes use a large crescent wrench to straighten bent things on the frame, depending...

If you really get into working on the nittygritty. You should learn to make your own tools. I made a tool for pulling dead end bearings from the case of my 250R motor. I am really quite proud of it because I couldn't actually find a tool for sale that would do the job. So, I made one, and it works great. It is probably better than the one they show in the Honda shop manual simply because you don't "pound" the bearing out.

 

Philzie,

I take it from your post that you have replaced one or more ATV clutches. How long should a clutch last on an ATV that is driven by a mature rider who rides no more than 40 hours a year?

Also, the clutch on my TRX300 responds much faster than that of my Bayou 220 even though it has seen many more hours. Would you say that is because the larger engine generates centrifugal force more quickly?

Thanks.

Thanks.

 

Well, I am not sure how long a clutch should last.
My Blaster clutch lasted for 3 years from new, and I was pretty hard on it. But, it grenaded and wrecked a lot of stuff after I sold the quad. I sold the quad in boxes, so I wasn't the one who put it together before it exploded. I think that one was a little loose on the secondary gear. The Blaster has rubber shocks between the gear and the basket, and you are supposed to replace the basket if there is any rotation between them.
My '85 350X has the original basket. I replaced the plates with a Barnett kit a couple years ago. The clutch really started to chatter. I really need a new basket for it though, the pull is rough, and it has grooves in the basket. I filed it, but now when I coast to a stop in gear and the clutch is disengaged, I feel it "jumping" a little, not a good thing. So, I don't ride it much.
My '85 250R is in similar condition, and since it is torn down, I am going to replace the basket. Probably with a Hinson unit.

My 400EX is still going strong. It chattered a little when I ran synthetic oil in it. I switched back to dino-sludge and it works fine.

As for the difference in clutch on your quads, they are of different manufacturers. There are so many variables there, I would expect them to feel different.