ATV newbie needs help with Trailblazer 250
#1
ATV newbie needs help with Trailblazer 250
Having owned motorcycles all my life, the Automatic trans on the new to me Trailblazer 250 is unfamilar ground.
problem is when I put it in gear, fwd or rvr, it dies. Starts and runs great. Problem just "happened'. Was working as it should all summer and now, not so much.
changed trans fluid and cleaned debris from belt.
Any helpful suggestions on what might be causing this problem.. and more so .. how to fix it would be much appreciated.
thanks
-Bob
problem is when I put it in gear, fwd or rvr, it dies. Starts and runs great. Problem just "happened'. Was working as it should all summer and now, not so much.
changed trans fluid and cleaned debris from belt.
Any helpful suggestions on what might be causing this problem.. and more so .. how to fix it would be much appreciated.
thanks
-Bob
#2
#3
As long as you've eliminated the clutch,especially if its an older Trailblazer(what year model??) most of the time when it dies when directly shifting into gear,either forward or reverse,its usually the reverse limiter module shorting out. You can just unhook the black wire from the circuit board OR connector on later models and then you won't have to push the yellow over ride button as you will have full power in reverse at all times! I unhooked a bunch of em,especially in the 90's (250,350 and 400 models) OPT
#4
thanks
Thanks for the replies
Its a 2001 - 250cc - 2wd (sorry i left that part out).
not sure if they all are? but this is an automatic. so not sure how to eliminate the possibilty it is a clutch?
no rubber chuncks in belt, just what look like the beginnings of a mouse nest
its 10 years old, but for sure has less than a 200 hours on it.
Where do I find his black or yellow wire???
thanks again,
bob
Its a 2001 - 250cc - 2wd (sorry i left that part out).
not sure if they all are? but this is an automatic. so not sure how to eliminate the possibilty it is a clutch?
no rubber chuncks in belt, just what look like the beginnings of a mouse nest
its 10 years old, but for sure has less than a 200 hours on it.
Where do I find his black or yellow wire???
thanks again,
bob
#5
You can eliminate the clutch just by pulling the belt off and cranking up and placing in gear!!
If it still dies,pull the front cover and pull the BLACK wire from the left small module (there will be two modules, a regulator/rectifier and the reverse limiter module) PLUS make sure the throttle has 1/8" slack only in the thumb throttle! If too lose, can die also when internal contact points in the housing touch.This is a safety feature(electronic throttle control or etc switch as its referred to) A cheap online manual can help you stay on top of the Trailblazer with a lot of troubleshooting tips along with maintenance when the need arises!
OPT
If it still dies,pull the front cover and pull the BLACK wire from the left small module (there will be two modules, a regulator/rectifier and the reverse limiter module) PLUS make sure the throttle has 1/8" slack only in the thumb throttle! If too lose, can die also when internal contact points in the housing touch.This is a safety feature(electronic throttle control or etc switch as its referred to) A cheap online manual can help you stay on top of the Trailblazer with a lot of troubleshooting tips along with maintenance when the need arises!
OPT
#6
Have you ever seen what a Polaris belt drive will do to a mouse?....I pulled my cover off one day and it took me a few seconds to figure out how I got grease in my clutch cover!!!!...lol
#7
well... yes and no..
OPT,
It appears to be an issue with the clutch.
When I pulled the belt, it continued to run after shifting into FWD or RVR.
As a novice looking, it appears that the "thing" that rides in/out that tightens the belt as RPM's go up/down is not coming all the way out? and maybe thats causing it too stall?
Questions:
Should the belt be loose when it neutral? Only engaging/tightening when put into gear?
Should the "thing" that rides/out come all the way out to the end of the shaft when in nuetral at an idle?
If the answers to the above questions are "no".. then obviously i barking up the wrong tree.
Possibly you can direct me to the correct tree, meaning what about the clutch causes it to stall and if replacing/rebulding the clutch is whats needed to fix???? how invloved is that? special tools?
I have a manual on order, but waiting on delivery. Any/all help would be much appreciated.
thanks much for your time and input.
-Bob
It appears to be an issue with the clutch.
When I pulled the belt, it continued to run after shifting into FWD or RVR.
As a novice looking, it appears that the "thing" that rides in/out that tightens the belt as RPM's go up/down is not coming all the way out? and maybe thats causing it too stall?
Questions:
Should the belt be loose when it neutral? Only engaging/tightening when put into gear?
Should the "thing" that rides/out come all the way out to the end of the shaft when in nuetral at an idle?
If the answers to the above questions are "no".. then obviously i barking up the wrong tree.
Possibly you can direct me to the correct tree, meaning what about the clutch causes it to stall and if replacing/rebulding the clutch is whats needed to fix???? how invloved is that? special tools?
I have a manual on order, but waiting on delivery. Any/all help would be much appreciated.
thanks much for your time and input.
-Bob
You can eliminate the clutch just by pulling the belt off and cranking up and placing in gear!!
If it still dies,pull the front cover and pull the BLACK wire from the left small module (there will be two modules, a regulator/rectifier and the reverse limiter module) PLUS make sure the throttle has 1/8" slack only in the thumb throttle! If too lose, can die also when internal contact points in the housing touch.This is a safety feature(electronic throttle control or etc switch as its referred to) A cheap online manual can help you stay on top of the Trailblazer with a lot of troubleshooting tips along with maintenance when the need arises!
OPT
If it still dies,pull the front cover and pull the BLACK wire from the left small module (there will be two modules, a regulator/rectifier and the reverse limiter module) PLUS make sure the throttle has 1/8" slack only in the thumb throttle! If too lose, can die also when internal contact points in the housing touch.This is a safety feature(electronic throttle control or etc switch as its referred to) A cheap online manual can help you stay on top of the Trailblazer with a lot of troubleshooting tips along with maintenance when the need arises!
OPT
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#8
The belt should be loose in neutral! If you place a straight edge over the top of both clutches,the belt should have no more than an inch and a half slack from the bottom of the straight edge to the top of the belt when you push down on the belt! Plus shouldn't be tight either!
The front clutch won't usually come all the way back until you kill it,but should only show about 1/2" or so from being flush! If its not releasing back that far,then you could have worn plain bearings in the clutch sheaths causing it to bind and the rear clutch would be spinning causing it to try to creep an die on you??? ,the sliding buttons (6) could be worn or even the rear clutch ramp buttons could be causing the problem? The belt tightens up as rpm increases: starts out small on the front,large on the rear and gradually reverses as rpms increase causing the front part of the belt to increase from the clucth pushing the belt up and smaller in the rear as the belt moves downward! Best I can explain it! That's why it's called a variable clutch system. Wish I could see it then I could maybe help better! Special tools are need for the front clutch(puller if you want to remove the front clutch,a spider tool to take it apart) The manual will show the tools and help explain a little better! OPT
The front clutch won't usually come all the way back until you kill it,but should only show about 1/2" or so from being flush! If its not releasing back that far,then you could have worn plain bearings in the clutch sheaths causing it to bind and the rear clutch would be spinning causing it to try to creep an die on you??? ,the sliding buttons (6) could be worn or even the rear clutch ramp buttons could be causing the problem? The belt tightens up as rpm increases: starts out small on the front,large on the rear and gradually reverses as rpms increase causing the front part of the belt to increase from the clucth pushing the belt up and smaller in the rear as the belt moves downward! Best I can explain it! That's why it's called a variable clutch system. Wish I could see it then I could maybe help better! Special tools are need for the front clutch(puller if you want to remove the front clutch,a spider tool to take it apart) The manual will show the tools and help explain a little better! OPT
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