01 Magnum 325 AWD erratic
#11
Mr. OPT,
Sorry for the misunderstanding! Took the hubs apart, I have good magnatization on both coils with power on, and releases when switched off. Checked the inner and outer poles: right .0015" and Left .001". My feeler gauge has a min .0015".
Sorry for the misunderstanding! Took the hubs apart, I have good magnatization on both coils with power on, and releases when switched off. Checked the inner and outer poles: right .0015" and Left .001". My feeler gauge has a min .0015".
#12
Just about run out of ideas.If the coils check ok, plates are new,bearings are good,battery is good and charging properly like you say. Only other thing is the back of the roll cage themselves. If they're worn or scarred any at all around where the armature tabs engage, the garter spring isn't stretched and the cage bearings ramp up smoothly by hand,plus the inside of the hubs themselves are smooth,not pitted or rough. If it continues to kick out after it gets warm and you're using Polaris hub fluid,I'd be inclined to think it's an intermittent electrical short kicking it out of awd or one of the coils getting weak when hot. OPT
#13
Inspected the bearings, roll cage, spring and everything appears to be ok. Move good by hand.
Question on the voltage: at idle 11.8v at rpm's with wheels just about to turn it goes up to 12.4, is this normal range?
Also I question the trans switch (s), because when I start it up in AWD with the gear in high it works, and if I never shift it will stay on. It is only when I shift that the AWD light does not come on.
Lastly is there a way to jumper to have full time AWD? There is a big snow strom due in two days and I would really like to use my plow.
Question on the voltage: at idle 11.8v at rpm's with wheels just about to turn it goes up to 12.4, is this normal range?
Also I question the trans switch (s), because when I start it up in AWD with the gear in high it works, and if I never shift it will stay on. It is only when I shift that the AWD light does not come on.
Lastly is there a way to jumper to have full time AWD? There is a big snow strom due in two days and I would really like to use my plow.
#14
Older models you have to increase engine speed to abut 3000 rpms to get maximum charging to battery.Sounds like your charging is working ok.Sounds also like the 3 position high/reverse tranny switch is working properly(awd engages) but when you shift to low you loose awd. Could be the plastic internal lever on the low switch could be worn or damage.Plus on this model you do have a hub rpm limiter module located on the left side under the front panel(tucked in sideways if I remember correctly) don't have the schematic on wiring,but try disabling this module and see if you have awd in low range. Jumping switch wiring from the 3 position switch to the 2 position switch(low range) is possible I guess?,but you'd have to know which color wires to jumper. OPT
#15
Check the limiter 83-3, I received some funky readings.
The gray/or wire has no voltage? should be 12v?
The yel/Red has a voltage of 10.6 to 13.5vac at rpms -should be 3-9v?
These specs are from the polaris manual.
The gray/or wire has no voltage? should be 12v?
The yel/Red has a voltage of 10.6 to 13.5vac at rpms -should be 3-9v?
These specs are from the polaris manual.
#16
Almost same color wiring as the 98 manual I have. Also has the LR83 module(not the -3),but wiring is a little different. It says the yellow/red monitors engine rpm from the stator. Also states that green/white (I guess your gray/orange?) wont have power until rpms drop below 400(as a safety for the hubs) Try disconnecting the yellow wire and try the awd. If doesn't help,then if your module has a black wire disconnect it and try the awd. OPT
#18
As stated in the manual it can be harmful to the awd system to leave the hub limiter defeated except for test purposes,but I would at least try to disable/bypass it and see if a faulty limiter is the problem with no awd in low.
While you have the front and rear wheels off the ground operating at idle. OPT
While you have the front and rear wheels off the ground operating at idle. OPT
#19
MR. OPT
Interesting turn of events! I have the ATV in the air so the tire are spining. I was checking the voltage on the trans switches gray wire is in gear = 11.2v (coils had same voltage). I rev'd the engine for twenty to thirty seconds and suddenly the AWD light came on, all by it's self. This is strange, I have not seen this before. Checked the batter voltage and I had 13.5 volts at idle??
Rechecked the tran switches and they had 12.2v, shifted high, low nd reverse and still the AWD light is on. Waited for a while and still working and still have the higher voltages. It would seem to indicate the voltage regulator you mentioned some time ago???
Interesting turn of events! I have the ATV in the air so the tire are spining. I was checking the voltage on the trans switches gray wire is in gear = 11.2v (coils had same voltage). I rev'd the engine for twenty to thirty seconds and suddenly the AWD light came on, all by it's self. This is strange, I have not seen this before. Checked the batter voltage and I had 13.5 volts at idle??
Rechecked the tran switches and they had 12.2v, shifted high, low nd reverse and still the AWD light is on. Waited for a while and still working and still have the higher voltages. It would seem to indicate the voltage regulator you mentioned some time ago???
#20
If you think you've narrowed it down to the regulator/rectifier check this place out.If they don't have your model listed give em a call. Polaris ATV Rectifier Regulator
OPT
OPT


