This past weekend I had my magnum out for snow plowing. For the first ten minutes AWD worked fine, for the next ten minutes no AWD, and finally for the last ten minutes working fine again. So I decided after reading some previous posts on this forum, to remove the front hubs and check the bearings and armature plates. The bearing on the front left was loose castle nut onlly hand tight. While I was in there I decided to change the armature plates. Filled with fluid and test drove, this time all was good until I shifted into low, no AWD. This morning same thing AWD working first ten min, then nothing. I have checked the coils and ohms are at 24, trans switches test ok, but my drawing Polaris #10.50 does not seem to be correct, the lower trans switch is different that actual.

I would apprecitate any help or suggestions for me to check.

Thanks in advance.

 

Very important to get the castle nut torque right. I cant remember but I think it has to be between 13(no less) to 14 (Max) ft/lbs.

Fluid type and amount is very important to.

 

Torque the hub nut to 15-20 foot pounds to pre load the bearings,back off 1/2 turn and torque to 12 foot pounds. If voltage is erratic at the coil especially after working awhile, check that the regulator/rectifier is charging 14-14.5 volts back to the battery and if the battery is old and possibly suspect it may not be holding a good charge which can affect the electronics,awd,lights,starting,etc. OPT

 

Torqud as you have describe 15 to 17 lbs then back 1/2 turn and set to 12 lbs. Fliied as istructions to 8 or 4 o clock. The battery is brand new, but will check the volage.

 

just came in from working on it. Voltage while running is ok seems like the regulator is functioning properly.

One question: what does the shifting have to do with the AWD. The only time the AWD goes out is on a shift? I have checked the trans switches and they seem to operate ok according to continuity test???

Have to stop for today promised the wife I would go xmas shopping.

Thanks for your help.

 

Check voltage at the awd wiring connectors themselves when you shift from low to high and vice versa while in awd mode. if you're getting power to the hub coils,then it would seem the transmission switches are ok and the problem may be a mechanical one in the hub assy itself.Don't just rely on a resistance test to the switches as it's not always 100 percent accurate.You must have 12 volts to the awd connector,plus check voltage down at the hub coils by lightly sticking sharp meter probes into the gray and brown wires. OPT

 

Checking the voltage today I found when the AWD light is not on I have voltage (11.90v) at the AWD switch, the trans switch, and the coils. I believe this would indicate the the coils are bad? As I have previously taken the hubs off and reset the bearings, I am confident that the mechanical portion of the hubs is correct. Is there any further testing I should do??

Again I do appreciate the time and effort put into helping me with my problem.

 

Could be the awd switch itself has shorted out. There should be no power to the coils with the switch in the off position. Control/awd switch has an updated part number,could have something to do with it? Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
OPT

 

I do not have voltage on the coils with the AWD in the off position.

 

Misunderstood I guess? If you have power to the coils with the switch on,check that you have a good pull on the armature plates themselves. Just have it gear and key on.Have someone slide the switch while you hold the plate close to the coil. It should pull to the coil and stick and release only when the switch is off. If not,then yes I'd suspect a bad coil,coil sleeve or inner pole problem. Plus don't remember if I mentioned that the coil sleeve must be flush with the strut inner pole. Check with a straight edge over the coil sleeve. Has to be flush or no more than .001 clearance under the straight edge and inner pole. OPT