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Magnum rear differential problems

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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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Default Magnum rear differential problems

Hi guys earlier today I was reading this forum and went ahead and took the rear off of my Magnum 500 4x4. I was hoping it was the splines on the axle shaft leading to the diff from transfer case. In my case it's something internal in the diff or possibly the axle. When turning the wheels the output on the diff turns as well. But if I put pressure with my hand on the output and turn the wheels the wheels turn freely. Any thoughts on what could be the issue? Axle or diff? Also how difficult is it to take out the axle if that is the case?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 05:50 PM
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Have you removed the prop shaft (#16) from the differential and tried to stop the differential out put shaft from turning when you turn the wheels? http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...2003&fveh=5625
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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Yes I have taken the diff and axle right off the atv. Slid off the prop shaft. The splines were perfect on the female end where the output shaft connects to. I put my hand on the output shaft and turned the wheels and they are turning no problem. I felt no force at all on the output shaft
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 06:04 PM
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I also had drained the fluid from the diff and it was very milky. Prolly because I need to replace a seal. Did not find any little shaving or anything like that in the oil
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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What did the fluid look like in the rear diff? If the output shaft has any type of noise it's possible the ring and pinion may be damaged. Item 8 and 18. Only had one that I could remember doing this because the rear diff was dry and hadn't been serviced in about 3 years.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 12:49 AM
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Fluid was milky but that is because of a seal that I have put off for a year(slow leak) and did not see any metal shavings or anything like that. When This all happened I was pushing snow with my plow and was pushing the atv pretty hard. I heard a break of some sort. No grinding or anything. I don't think I'm skilled enough to open the diff up on my own. Would it be easier/cheaper to buy a complete diff Or get it rebuilt?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 06:11 AM
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Best thing is to have it taken apart to find what any damage has been done.Could be something happened that's not that expensive? If the ring and pinion gears(need to be replaced as a set) are the problem,then you're looking at about $300 plus bearings,seals,labor. A new diff is around $680.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 02:47 PM
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Thank you for all the advice. I will port again in a few days to give you a heads up on everything.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 02:54 PM
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Hi just wanted to give an update on situation. Axle splines are completely worn out and also the main gear splines are worn. Those two parts are going to run about 500-550 possibly. At the dealer right now waiting for those to come in. The mechanic had also gave me a ridiculous price on the bearing kit for the diff and the axle from polaris.monline was the way to go for those products. Definitely not cheap either way.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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Also the mechanic said it took almost two hours to get everything apart. The bearings were destroyed in the diff. Axle bearing were also seized up into the axle tube. Regular maintenance is unknown on how to prevent any of this from happening. Mind you it prolly hasn't been opened since 2000.
 
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