I always premixed the first tank 50-1 only after a rebuild to assist on break in! 25-1 is way too rich on oil and can cause bogging problems from too much oil and too little octane. You can always check the oil pump by pulling the line from the carb and lifting the oil pump lever all the way up while at an idle. Oil should trickle out of the tube. Leave the jetting alone and keep the slide needle in the 3rd position from the top which should be the middle.It will smoke a little extra during the first tank,then just use straight gas.

 

Sorry. I meant premix my gas 50:1 and still using the oil injection (50:1) would be 25:1
I drained the premix gas and added fresh premium gas. It ran better but would not idle on its own. However I was able to move the air mix screw to 1 1/2 turns out.
Then I moved the clip on the needle down one to raise the needle. It ran better and didn't require a choke to restart after stall. Also I was able to barely move the idle screw out.
Then I dropped the clip one more so the needle was at its highest and now it idles on its own. Still has a bad bog on low but high is great.

 

Each engines a little different as far as settings go,especially on rebuilds. Give it time to break in,then you can fine tune the carb to see if you can get the bog out..

 

Thanks opt! I have a different question. There is a timing mark on the case and one on the stator plate. I took a picture before I tore it down to rebuild. They weren't lined up. It was retarded and I tried to match it back up by the picture.
Should the marks line up?

Thanks, Mike

 

Keep the marks lined up the way they were from the factory. A lot of times I've found the stator marks to be slightly to the right of the case mark(slightly retarded). The timing/spark is set at the factory at 3000 rpms to the center mark on the flywheel(25 degrees BTDC) and the plate is adjusted accordingly to get this setting.