solenoid
#2
replace your inline fuse that should be coming off of the positive cable of the battery which should be >12volts. like 12.6v. amperage on fuse should not be higher than whatever is in there already, not for sure if the fuse is a 5 or 7 amp.
#3
I have checked all of the fuses I could find, and all were good. The ignition switch sends out power when the key is turned to start position. The power just isn't making it's way to the solenoid. ???
#4
If the small power wire to the solenoid doesn't have 12 volts,then it's possible you could have a short in the switch wiring or the ignition switch itself. Pull the headlight pod and check out the switch connector and wiring for any shorts/bare wires as this is where most of the twists and turns occur on the wiring.It's not unusual for an ignition switch internal soldered connections to come loose from vibration too. You can also do a continuity test on the red/white wire from the ignition switch connector to the solenoid red/white wire to eliminate it as a problem.
#7
I don't know how to properly check the neutral switch, but my guages show which gear I have it in.
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#8
Don't run a wire just check continuity on the wire from the switch to the solenoid. This is just a standard check of elimination of problem sources,as most of the time it's either an ignition switch or a bare wire shorting out that needs to be repaired.
#9
I finally got the ambition to follow the ignition wire today, and found it broken right under the headlight. Some other wires there needed attention also. It starts with the key, and I didn't even have to buy a part. Thanks for the advice.
#10
This is where they usually break where all the twisting and turning on the harnes is! Glad you got it repaired.
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