I'm seeing a variety of torque specs for the front hub nut ranging all over the place. Is 80-100 inch lbs correct after seating it it at around 120 in/lbs?
Thanks!

 

If you look at the manual it shows a "rolling nut torque" You start off torquing the flex nut to 400 inch pounds,then back off 1/2 turn. Then torque again and "read" the torque applied that starts moving the flex nut. Usually between 75-400 inch pounds. Add this reading to 100 inch pounds(bearing preload) So then say if you show 150 inch pounds(average reading) when the nut moves,then add 150 to the 100 bearing preload torque. 250 inch pounds total or a tad over 20 foot pounds. With a used nut you may get a different reading,but after all the ones I did,20 pounds was the average final torque. Confused? Yes this was a funky system and didn't last too long before the castle nut,cotter pin, and 12 pounds of torque showed up!

 

I bought a Hanes manual when I picked up the ATV, been disappointed in it, and there is only one short sentence about the axle nut.
What you wrote made perfect sense. I got the "rolling nut" thing you described. I followed those steps and just finished putting new rotors on both sides, cleaned the "innerts" real good in parts cleaner, put a thin coat of Mobile1 synthetic ATF everywhere and torqued everything down. It ended up being right at 20 lbs and feels snug, but turns with verly little effort just like you said. Waiting for my Polaris Demand Drive oil to arrive, then fill the hubs to 4:00. On to the brakes tomorrow to finish up new brakes, new rotors and 3 calipers that all function fine. Thanks once again! Got to get up early so I can get the wife off to work!

 

Haynes manuals are less descriptive than most of the Clymers manuals are and a little too British for me.. Clymers are close to factory Polaris manuals,but they too leave some things vague. I've read some Haynes manuals in where they spell tires "tyres" and the word for a flashlight is "torch". You can get in a little trouble if you take the last one literally