hey guys new here and I have been reading a few different forums and requesting help so here it goes. I recently purchased a 96 magnum 425. and it was running great except for a leak out of the float bowl drain, so I figured it was just the needle sticking. So I pulled the tank turned the carb over an removed the bowl then sprayed carb cleaner threw the needle an seat then reassembled. After that It ran like crap so I removed the carb and cleaned several times. Still no go. I have replaced the needle and seat, the O-rings on the jet-block, o-ring behind pilot screw, cleaned all jets, blew air threw all ports, the diaphragm on top seems fine no cracks tears or holes. The pilot screw is set 2.5 turns out (tried adjusting in and out and no go). When I apply throttle I pops and hesitates. Any Ideas guys.. the link below is a video I took please take a look and help.

20130524_201808_zpsf3cb8e0e.mp4 Video by hellrazor3114 | Photobucket

 

Other than sounding like you're running with out an air filter(which can cause lean conditions) I'd check the valve setting (.006 intake and exhaust) along with the exhaust lobe on the cam.This model was in the year range of 425 and 500 engines that had problems on wear on cam lobes. Would backfire and not take throttle,but would idle all day. Check to see if the cam lobe has worn down similar to this one. http://forums.atvconnection.com/pola...d-cam-pic.html

 

It has an air filter everything for the airbox is on and snug. How could it be the cam ehen it ran perfect before i cleaned it to stop a drip at the bowl

 

Suggestions are just a process of elimination.. If you've eliminated the carb as the source of the problem,fuel pump clean and open and flowing, air box,filter,etc ok,then move on to another area.By you're description sounds like you have the carb rebuilt. The only thing else in this area is the float arm level (must be parallel with the carb body) plus if the float arm is wobbly and worn,may need to be replaced. It to can cause problems if it sticks. Most people overlook the float arm and pin when they rebuild carbs as it doesn't come in the kits.Has to come from a dealer or outlet. Reason I mentioned checking valve adjustment and the exhaust cam lobe is that this was a common problem area on these machines also as the cam was superceded to a different part number because of soft heat treatment on the original ones. Plus one of the symptoms was popping back,hesitation and no power above an idle.May or may not be the source of your problem,but it was for many people.

 

I understand and thank you for the sugestions. Sory if i seemed gruff in my last reply it just seemed that it only acted up after messing with the carb. And yes the float is wobbly on the pin, i didnt figure that would effect it but i will try to get a new pin today and check the cam. Also i apoligize for grammar and punctuation as i am replying from my phone

 

ok after replacing every part available in the carb and going crazy I finally pulled the valve cover and found the cam saved down by the exhaust rocker, its just seemed weird that it happened at he same time of the carb. anyways now I need a new cam, anyone got some ideas where to find one besides the local dealer