Over 6000mi. on this beast. The secondary clutch has 4 shims and belt still touches inside of primary sheave. Has OEM 3211077 belt. Drives out well but sure would like to stop the punishing clunk into gear. Snowplowing is gonna kill it. If I hold up the bottom of the belt, while the engine is running, it stops driving the secondary. I need confidence that putting $60 worth of new belt on will fix it before I do it. It`s like an idler pulley on the bottom of the belt would fix it. Make any sense? The primary clutch doesn`t have ribs at the center like I`ve seen on clutches for sale. My ATV is supposed to have EBS and it seems to engine brake on decal. The

 

If that's the original belt....it's done a good job , but its life is over. Changing the belt should be your first move. That may not be the only thing that you need , but it should be done. It sounds like you "don't" have an EBS primary clutch. Your bike probably came with one if that's what the clutch cover says. The previous owner must have replaced it with a cheaper non EBS clutch. Since your belt is still touching the inside sheave even with 4 shims behind the secondary, (3 is the max I guess) I'm guessing your lower motor mount is shot and or the motor position has moved. You will see that where the motor mount bolts down, there is a side to side slot to position the engine to align the belt in relation to the secondary clutch. You may have to tweak that when installing a new mount. Try to leave the engine position where it was when you change the mount though, AFTER you change the belt. Make sure you blow out your clutches with compressed air while in there also.

 

Had both ebs and non ebs clutches for that model year. Along with the non ebs #3211077 used a #3211069 belt for ebs systems. If you have the correct belt on sounds like it's stretched out. If you have a straight edge on top of both clutches and the center of belt is more more than two inches from the straight edge when pulled down,it's worn out. By your description sounds like it is.With too much slack it will drift over even on non ebs clutches and touch the inner sheath causing creeping hard to shift gears.With this much wear I'd replace the driven clutch ramp buttons also. I'm sure with 6000 miles of hard use they need it. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus if you're not the original owner someone may have changed decals or the complete cover at one time with one that showed ebs on the decal.Had two different decals,one said auto/ebs the other said auto drive. Here's both clutches for this model.You can tell real quick which system you have. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...2002&fveh=5582

 

replaced the belt with OEM from dealer. Still dragged but didn`t clunk as bad at first. Now I`ve been working it (cutting wood) and it`s worse. Hard to get out of gear. Seemed to line up better with new belt like you said. What can I do now? Need help.

 

Look at where the belt rides on the front clutch at an idle.Should be dead center. If you still have the 4 shims behind the secondary clutch or haven't addressed the rear clutch ramp buttons if needed,this can be the problem.Plus measure center of drive clutch bolt to center of driven clutch bolt, should be 10 inches only,no more no less. Non ebs clutch systems/ belts rarely dragged unless it's something you're over looking such as broken motor mounts that were mentioned,shimmed out too far or not enough or the clutches themselves if you have the correct 3211077 belt.Plus simple things like try lowering the idle.