Hi all,

I have a 04 Predator kids atv that I have been fighting with for over a year. It has always been hard to start with either electric or kickstart, but once started, runs well. It was progressively getting worse, and I suddenly realized that when I messed with the left brake lever it would improve or worsen the issue. I gently pulled the brake safety wire a bit and the atv fired up with no issues, wiggled it some more and wouldn't even turn over, wiggled some more and back to square one except now when I give it full throttle, it stalls out, and the kickstart works flawlessly. I disconnected the brake safety switch and at this point electric start does not work at all, turns over immediately with kickstart and runs great until I give it full throttle, then stalls. I clearly think at this point its an electrical issue, probably bad ground. Before I tear into it, can anyone confirm my theory and point out any common areas where wires get pinched, damaged or corroded that would effect these conditions? I also disconnected the ground wire from the battery completely, but that did not change the stalling issue. Please help, my son is getting tired of getting let down with this quad, but I know it's a simple fix. Thanks.

 

This is not only a brake light switch but a starter lock out switch unless the brake lever is depressed. Won't allow power to the starter relay. Start by getting a new one and go from there. Easy way to crank these little cold blooded machines either with the electrical or manual choke,is to block off the air duct coming out of the air box with your thumb. This lets a rich charge of gas into the cylinder and once you do it on first start it will crank right back up usually with no problems. Item#21 here for 15.52+ shipping.2004 Polaris PREDATOR 90 (A04KA09CA) Handlebar /Cb | Cycle Parts Warehouse Or here for $22.99 with free shipping. Polaris New ATV Handlebar Sensor Switch Harness Phoenix Sawtooth Scrambler | eBay

 

Thanks Old Tech, I will order one today. Would that effect my other issue of it stalling when I give it full throttle? I specifically didn't have that problem until I wiggled the wires a bit.

 

Possibly since it started when you wiggled the wires on the switch,with electrical items anything can happen. Get the new switch installed and go from there.

 

Hey Old Tech,
I'm still waiting for the brake sensor switch, but in the meantime it's been driving me nuts why it's stalling out at high throttle, so I took the fender off and inspected all the wiring and connections. Everything seemed fine. Still fires right up with kickstart and idles and runs up to about half throttle no problem. I looked in the service manual again and everything pointed to a carb adjustment. I thought no way; I adjusted the carb a few months ago when I thought that's why it's not starting and it has been running great until I wiggled some wires. Well I gave it a shot and I was wrong. Closed the air screw a bit and adjusted the throttle and it seems to run pretty well and still fires up with kickstart (I have the brake sensor wires disconnected at the plugs under fender, so electric start is not operating). Out of curiosity, what would have made the carb be out of adjustment when I wiggled the wire? Or, was the carb properly adjusted before I touched it months ago, and somehow the problem with the brake sensor made it still work when it fired up? I'm so confused at how that was the problem, but didn't occur until the exact moment I tinkered with the wiring a bit. Either way I'm certain the brake sensor was definitely bad, it would stall out everytime the brake lever was used. One last thing, if I jump the brake sensor wires below the fender at the plugs, should the brake light light up, or should the electric start work?

 

Wiggling the wires and then finding the carb out of adjustment are just a coincidence. Don't think jumping the sensor wires will allow the starter to work,at least what I've heard from the people that have tried. No harm trying though,curious myself as I don't ever remember trying this myself at the shop.

 

Nope, doesn't work when it's jumped. Hopefully it'll all work once I replace the brake sensor switch. Will keep you posted and thanks for the advice.