Also checking over the final drive shafts, I noticed the rear prop-shaft coming out of the transmission has some play in it, specifically where the yoke is at the splined shaft. Looking in the repair manual it doesn't give anything for the rear but to remove it in the tranny section. Any problems with those rear prop shafts you know of or parts wearing? Can i change the yoke out or the whole kit and caboodle???

 

Best I can remember the rear diff has to be moved back to service/replace the rear prop shaft or u joints. Clevis pins were a problem by the gear case as they could come out and dig a hole in the case if not caught in time. Expensive to replace the entire shaft,but depends on how worn it is or whether you want to just replace the u-joints.

 

OPT have they made any better headlight bulbs for the two lower headlights? I would like to upgrade, so what are the options? Thank you.

 

Just google you machine and bulbs and you'll find places like this. More expensive but brighter bulbs to fit the oem housings are out there.
GENSSI 80W LED bulbs for Polaris OEM ATV 27W Low Beam Headlight Bulb 4030059 (Pack of 2)

 

OPT more wisdom if you can...LOL. How high up the filler neck should you see coolant? I just want to make sure its high enough so they overflow tank works properly. Also what are your thoughts on a 2" front lift for the sportsman 700? At first before i put heavier duty springs on, when you would hit a bump the tire would rub the plastics on the left front. I really havent put it to the test yet, but the one i'm looking at on ebay looks just like spacers on the strut tower up top. It just seems like only about 2- 2.5" gap between tire and plastics. thanks again sir.

 

Top of the radiator just below the over flow hole. Never been a fan of lift kits. Most cause excessive wear on drive line components. Heavy duty springs as long as the shocks are ok,yes they are worth the money.

 

Shocks are okay, but when they do need replaced, what do you recommend??

 

Oem Kimpex or Bronco to name a couple. These are on ebay or amazon along with other brands.

 

OPT, I am here for more wisdom!!! So onto the clutch. The engagement for the primary clutch is quite extensive when your hitting the throttle so here are my concerns. It did come with the EPI sport utility kit intsalled. The primary had their white spring installed in the primary, so I switched to their silver to drop the rpm engagement of the clutch; Still too high so I changed again to their red spring. Now engagement is tolerable, but talking with their tech, they had me do a measurement of the gap between the belt and the outer sheave on the primary. He said polaris says it should be a happy medium at .030''. Mine is way past that when you push the belt all the way to the engine side sheave to get your gap. Service manual says that either the belt is worn or the belt/sheave clearance is too excessive. Doesn't give me a number to go by or the procedure to fix the gap. All it says is to perform belt/sheave clearance adjustment with shim washers beneath the spider. What do you make of that excessive gap and i understand the belt can be the culprit, but it looks fairly new to me and no noticeable wear on the belt. Please help. Thanks again.

 

One important thing is that if you have a different belt than the oem one that in itself can cause problems. Polaris engineers told be no more than .020 clearance between the one way and the clutch sheath. The brass washer under the cup takes a beating along with the fiber washer over time.You can substitute a steel washer for the brass one if you wish. Look at this one on a 500 Sportsman. Same kinda problem and how he worked his problem out. https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...-creeping.html Stop at post 12..