[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]hi all i recently bought a used magnum 425.i just replaced the hub seal.when i put it in awd the light doesnt come on.when i put it in reverse override the awd light comes on.then i put it back in forward and the light goes out.also one hub seems to be not engaging.is this awd system good?it seems really hokey.if somthing is not just right no go.i changed fluid in both.also when i tighten the axle nut the wheel is hard to turn and the nut isnt very tight.is somthing else wrong?any help is great thanx

 

sounds like the shifter is out of adjustment or the switch in the shifter is bad.

 

You could also have a wiring problem somewhere?? With all that going on I would follow all the wires and check them out real close.

 

The AWD might not be coming on in FWD because there is a switch that has to be made in the gear selector. If your switch is not adjusted or just plain shot, then your AWD will not come on. This is one possibility. You should also check all the wire connectiong under the front cab (especially the gray and brown wire connections that run to your hubs).

When you replaced your hub seal, did you use a new capture nut or does your hub use a cotter pin with a slotted nut? If you have the older capture nut design, you need to buy and use a new nut. Otherwise, you're probably placing too much torque on the nut and forcing the clutch and bearings too tight together. Therefore, the wheel is being preloaded too much and it won't spin freely.

 

Yep, I was just reading about that also Spirit. My manual states... A)If the bearing uses a self-locking nut, measure the minimum torque while it is being tightened with an inch pound torque wrench. If it isn't at least 75 inch-lbs, discard the nut and install a new one. To get the final torque, keep tightening until the torque reading exceeds the minimum reading by 100 inch-lbs. Turn the FRONT hubs several turns in each direction by jacking up the of the vehicle and turining the rear axle. Then loosen the nut and retighten it to the final torque (minimum plus 100 inch-lbs).
B) If the bearing uses a castellated nut and cotter pin, tighten the nut to 100 inch-lbs. Turn the FRONT hubs several turns in each direction by jacking up the of the vehicle and turining the rear axle. Then loosen the nut and retighten it to 100 inch-lbs. Install a new cotter pin.

If you followed those steps, then that shouldn't be the problem, if you can't find any wiring problems and the torque is ok, I would check the garter spring, the rollers and cam, and the armature plate inside of the hub.

 

hi all thanx for all the input.my axle nut is the cotterpin design.i dont have a torque wrench is 100 inch pounds tight?to make my wheel spin freely the nut is fairly loose?where abouts is the shifter switch?are wiring problems common on older polarises?also what voltage should be at the hub if any?if the light only comes on in reverse overide is it only working in reverse?thanx all again [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

You have a lot going on. This is a step by step process, so follow closely. pull the front wheel hub off completely, take all inner hub parts off \ out, clean everything up real good. Now the fun part. make sure the magnet is not chewed up or scarred, the outer sleeve of the magnet is adjustable, make sure that it is as close to even with the inner sleeve as possible ( within a couple thousandths) that is to say that the outer sleeve is to be beyond the inner NOT the other way around, use a large punch and hammer to gentle adjust if necessary, use a straight edge accross the two sleeves to check gap. when putting back together, put a smidge of grease (pump type) on mating surface of armatuer plate and back of roller cage. place armatuer plate on spindle against magnet, then slide the round spacer into back of cage, then slide cage ( with cam inside and spacer inserted in the back) on to spindle and line up tabs of plate with back of cage and set tightly against magnet. Now VERY VERY carefully slide the hub and inner bearing on over internal parts. You only get one chance at this so hold it tightly aganst strut, if it slides outward take off and check plate and cage again for proper alignment and then try it again. While holding hub in slide outer bearing on then the nut and tighten finger tight, torque to 12-13 foot pounds (144+ inch pounds), raise the rear spin 3-4 revolutions, then back nut off and re-torque to 12 ft\lbs. put cotterpin in again, and reinstall outer cap. fill with either polaris AWD hub fluid or TYPE F transmission fluid. (Same thing just a price and preference issue.). That will have your hub and bearings setup correctly according to Polaris rules and regulations. I did it and it only works this way. Be patient, don't rush, pay attention, and you will get it right the first time. Believe me it is well worth taking the time. The wiring is something totally different. Best of luck, Brian[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

I'll try this again.... I lost the last one I tried to post for you. Here we go.... unhook the shift linkage from the shift lever at the transmission. shift it manually by moving the levers only. if that activates AWD light, adjust the linkage between levers on trans and actual shift lever. If not then the switch in the trans is bad, and will need to be replaced. (that is based on the fact that the AWD light only works in reverse with the override button in). you should actually have the light on any time the awd switch is on and you press the override button in wether in fwd or rev. Other wise check the brown\white wire out of the back of speedo if that machine has one. That is a ground wire that could be directly grounded to the ground block in front of handlebars. I had to do this to my 2000 sp 500 because it quit working on me on day. I traced the problem down to that wire being ungrounded in speedo for some reason. I snipped and direct grounded it and bam AWD was back. Brian

 

This is normal. Try to put in AWD and romp on it to get the rear to break traction. The AWD light only comes on when 4 wheel is engaged. When you put it in reverse and hold the reverse overides button, it's in AWD (engaged). When your in a forward gear, and put it in AWD, it doesn't actually engage unless the rear is slipping, hence no light. It should only come on when it's engaged. At least that's how my '03 sp 500 is.

 

somd500, that must be just your machine or maybe certain ones cause my 2000xplor when the awd is switched on the light comes on without the machine moving.