For Those Who Ride Deep Water/Mud
#1
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This is just an F.Y.I....... We/I have noticed that there are alot of water-cooled ATV'S around here with water-pump seals going out....
They get contaminated when the overflow bottle goes underwater too much and the mud/dirty water get into the system thru the tiny hole in the cap... It eventually plugs up radiators, and destroys the water pump seals....
To fix it...
Take an automotive type valve stem from a wheel (or get one at the local tire shop) take the valve core out of it and throw it away. Take your overflow bottle cap off, and drill a hole in it..(you can get the correct diameter drill bit by looking at the wheel from which you swiped the valve stem) Install the valve stem in the cap, run flexible tubing from the end of the valve stem up higher than the water you intend to ride in....
If your system is already contaminated, this is a good time to flush the system. At MINIMUM, pull the line from the bottom of the bottle and drain/flush it..!!!
They get contaminated when the overflow bottle goes underwater too much and the mud/dirty water get into the system thru the tiny hole in the cap... It eventually plugs up radiators, and destroys the water pump seals....
To fix it...
Take an automotive type valve stem from a wheel (or get one at the local tire shop) take the valve core out of it and throw it away. Take your overflow bottle cap off, and drill a hole in it..(you can get the correct diameter drill bit by looking at the wheel from which you swiped the valve stem) Install the valve stem in the cap, run flexible tubing from the end of the valve stem up higher than the water you intend to ride in....
If your system is already contaminated, this is a good time to flush the system. At MINIMUM, pull the line from the bottom of the bottle and drain/flush it..!!!
#2
#3
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There was a really good article I read on a Honda site a few weeks ago talking about the large amount of water pump seals going out on everything from Goldwings to CR's and the Honda factory did some investigating and came up with the reason why.
It seems in nearly every case the owners of these vehicles had recently done their own (Or had the dealer do it) coolant flush and refill.
They were using antifreeze that was for automotive use (Prestone,Penzoil, Etc.)
that was also safe for aluminium Radiators and blocks so they assumed it would be perfect for bikes because most bikes have mostly aluminium components also.
The problem is, The ingredient that makes it non-corrosive to aluminium is a compound called silica ( AKA Silicate) and anyone that has been around a milling or fabrication/welding shop knows it also as silica SAND.
Thats right,Silica is very coarse and abrasive so it was tearing the tiny seals around the water pump impellers.
Honda does make an anti-freeze that is called Honda Pro that is silica free.
I also believe there are a few automotive types that are silica free too.
I will be changing my factory coolant at the end of the summer and using silica free coolant as I have seen what coolant can do to a two strokes crankcase when introduced at high RPM's.
(Can you say GRENADE!!)
P.S. I also checked the Polaris manual and it says nothing about silica free coolant.
It seems in nearly every case the owners of these vehicles had recently done their own (Or had the dealer do it) coolant flush and refill.
They were using antifreeze that was for automotive use (Prestone,Penzoil, Etc.)
that was also safe for aluminium Radiators and blocks so they assumed it would be perfect for bikes because most bikes have mostly aluminium components also.
The problem is, The ingredient that makes it non-corrosive to aluminium is a compound called silica ( AKA Silicate) and anyone that has been around a milling or fabrication/welding shop knows it also as silica SAND.
Thats right,Silica is very coarse and abrasive so it was tearing the tiny seals around the water pump impellers.
Honda does make an anti-freeze that is called Honda Pro that is silica free.
I also believe there are a few automotive types that are silica free too.
I will be changing my factory coolant at the end of the summer and using silica free coolant as I have seen what coolant can do to a two strokes crankcase when introduced at high RPM's.
(Can you say GRENADE!!)
P.S. I also checked the Polaris manual and it says nothing about silica free coolant.
#4
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B...
Antifreeze makes an UGLY mess when it gets into the combustion chamber... hahahahahah....
I've seen a malfunctioning cooling system on a Detroit 6-71 cause tiny air-bubbles to hammer a hole right thru the iron cylinder liner!!.. Just tiny air bubbles!!!!
Needless to say it crashed the head when it leaked into the chamber!!
What specific brands of anti-freeze are using silica in their mix???..
Antifreeze makes an UGLY mess when it gets into the combustion chamber... hahahahahah....
I've seen a malfunctioning cooling system on a Detroit 6-71 cause tiny air-bubbles to hammer a hole right thru the iron cylinder liner!!.. Just tiny air bubbles!!!!
Needless to say it crashed the head when it leaked into the chamber!!
What specific brands of anti-freeze are using silica in their mix???..
#5
#6
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Most brands of antifreeze are manufactured in both varieties, standard and silacate free. The easiest way to identify the silicate free is by color. In many cases it is an orange color. Also it is usually called "Extended life" antifreeze.
It also costs a little more but its well worth the extra cost.
It also costs a little more but its well worth the extra cost.
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