Adding another rear caliper to a SC 500
#1
Just getting some opinions on an idea I have been kicking around. Would this be worth the effort. Fabricating brackets is no problem.
Option 1. Adding another caliper to the rear disc disconnect the emergency brake hose from the other caliper and connect to the new one and have a seperate foot operated rear brake. OR
Option 2. Putting a nice 4 piston caliper in place of the existing one using the the emergency brake hose again and disconnect the hose from the hand lever.
The so called emergency brake does have a master cylinder.
What are your thoughts?
98 SC 500
Option 1. Adding another caliper to the rear disc disconnect the emergency brake hose from the other caliper and connect to the new one and have a seperate foot operated rear brake. OR
Option 2. Putting a nice 4 piston caliper in place of the existing one using the the emergency brake hose again and disconnect the hose from the hand lever.
The so called emergency brake does have a master cylinder.
What are your thoughts?
98 SC 500
#2
If I recall the '98 Scramblers were the first with concentric drive?
On my '99 Sport I scrapped the foot pedal system completely. Using the HPD Maugura master cylinders I run a 50" braided steel line from the master cylinder along the frame rail. It stops close to the battery box, where I use a "T" fitting to run one 30" and 32" braided lines to the rear caliper. Using two new banjo's and bolts I utilize both holes in the caliper.
This allows me to use 100% of the rear caliper effectively with one easy to pull lever.
On my '99 Sport I scrapped the foot pedal system completely. Using the HPD Maugura master cylinders I run a 50" braided steel line from the master cylinder along the frame rail. It stops close to the battery box, where I use a "T" fitting to run one 30" and 32" braided lines to the rear caliper. Using two new banjo's and bolts I utilize both holes in the caliper.
This allows me to use 100% of the rear caliper effectively with one easy to pull lever.
#3
A400L
Yes you are correct first year for concentric but I dont think it matters.
Do you consider this a good improvement over the original design? It sounds pretty good.
I am not sure I understand correctly. Is this a left and right master cylinders with 2 levers on the handlebars? Similar to the split brake RCR offers. I have considered this but I would like to keep my expensive Polaris handguards. But I may not to be able to have my cake and eat it to.
A little more info on the Maugura master cylinder set up would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Yes you are correct first year for concentric but I dont think it matters.
Do you consider this a good improvement over the original design? It sounds pretty good.
I am not sure I understand correctly. Is this a left and right master cylinders with 2 levers on the handlebars? Similar to the split brake RCR offers. I have considered this but I would like to keep my expensive Polaris handguards. But I may not to be able to have my cake and eat it to.
A little more info on the Maugura master cylinder set up would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#4
Basically my set up is an extension of the HPD split brake kit, which is what Ritter is selling.
If you get this kit opt for the extra master cylinder. What you then get are two individual master cylinders, one for the front and another for the rear. It was an improvement over the pitifull stock system.
From there I removed all OEM lines and fittings, measured them, and threw them away! One of my winter projects was to replace them all with stainless braided lines, and new fittings.
Starting with the front I run a 30" line to the frame cross member (where my oil reservoir used to sit) where I mounted a 3 way "T" fitting. I have 30" lines run from that to each wheel where the connect to the caliper using chrome banjo's and bolts. I also replaced the pads with EBC's.
On the rear line I run a 50" line along the frame rail (using zip ties to hold it down). I removed the brake light switch too. Where the 50" line ends I use another 3 way "T" fitting (differnt style though) and run a 30" line and another 32" line to the rear caliper, using chrome banjo's and bolts again with EBC pads. I use the 32" line to make up for the space needed for one of the lines to come out of the bottom opening in the 3 way.
When I removed my foot pedal system I just plugged the hole in the caliper with a bolt. When I did the lines I split the rear line to use that hole, which gives me much more pressure on the caliper piston during braking, with just a pull of a single hand lever.
I used DOT 4 fluid and wrapped all my fittings with teflon tape before installation. It took a few times to bleed them to my liking, but the improvement is increadible! I have no trouble locking up the rears or even the fronts in soft dirt/sand! I chose the 30 and 32" lines to allow for maximum suspension travel (front and rear)without binding or interference with steering.
I'm glad I did too with my +3" swingarm on the way I'll need the extra inches!
Estimated $$$:HPD kit w/ extra cylinder about $225
EBC pads all around $90
Goodrich braided lines/chrome fittings $325
Teflon tape, Bel Ray DOT4 $10
piece of mind knowing I can stop on a dime, priceless!
If you get this kit opt for the extra master cylinder. What you then get are two individual master cylinders, one for the front and another for the rear. It was an improvement over the pitifull stock system.
From there I removed all OEM lines and fittings, measured them, and threw them away! One of my winter projects was to replace them all with stainless braided lines, and new fittings.
Starting with the front I run a 30" line to the frame cross member (where my oil reservoir used to sit) where I mounted a 3 way "T" fitting. I have 30" lines run from that to each wheel where the connect to the caliper using chrome banjo's and bolts. I also replaced the pads with EBC's.
On the rear line I run a 50" line along the frame rail (using zip ties to hold it down). I removed the brake light switch too. Where the 50" line ends I use another 3 way "T" fitting (differnt style though) and run a 30" line and another 32" line to the rear caliper, using chrome banjo's and bolts again with EBC pads. I use the 32" line to make up for the space needed for one of the lines to come out of the bottom opening in the 3 way.
When I removed my foot pedal system I just plugged the hole in the caliper with a bolt. When I did the lines I split the rear line to use that hole, which gives me much more pressure on the caliper piston during braking, with just a pull of a single hand lever.
I used DOT 4 fluid and wrapped all my fittings with teflon tape before installation. It took a few times to bleed them to my liking, but the improvement is increadible! I have no trouble locking up the rears or even the fronts in soft dirt/sand! I chose the 30 and 32" lines to allow for maximum suspension travel (front and rear)without binding or interference with steering.
I'm glad I did too with my +3" swingarm on the way I'll need the extra inches!
Estimated $$$:HPD kit w/ extra cylinder about $225
EBC pads all around $90
Goodrich braided lines/chrome fittings $325
Teflon tape, Bel Ray DOT4 $10
piece of mind knowing I can stop on a dime, priceless!
#5
A400L
WOW !!!!! Thanks for all the great info!
This should be just the thing for me. It will be a winter project though as funds are low now.
I just spent $400 for wheels & tires, $75 for a K&N and RCR lower steering stem bearing and $80 for the new 2000 tie rod ends.
That and the wife says she will sell it next time I go out of town for work if I spend anymore.
Thanks again!! See Ya
98 SC 500
WOW !!!!! Thanks for all the great info!
This should be just the thing for me. It will be a winter project though as funds are low now.
I just spent $400 for wheels & tires, $75 for a K&N and RCR lower steering stem bearing and $80 for the new 2000 tie rod ends.
That and the wife says she will sell it next time I go out of town for work if I spend anymore.
Thanks again!! See Ya
98 SC 500
#6
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