Hello there, first post...

Got the bike for free from a co-worker (beginning to realize why he gave it away). At first it was a great bike, good speed and reliable 4x4. I rode it for a fall/winter session, had some issues (described below) and parked it for a while. Aside from the 750,000 push clips I'm going to have to replace to put all the panels and fairings back on...(sigh)...I'm muscling through a couple of nasty little issues that may become big issues if I don't seek some help from this forum.

Before I parked it I was blowing ignition fuses. More luck than anything I'd wait a few minutes, replace the fuse then be off and running again. I found out it was a faulty rear brake switch. Sadly it was about a year before I got back to fixing it. I replaced the switch but before starting it I decided to give it a tune up.

When changing the oil I emptied about 6 or7 litres of oil and water out of the engine compartment. I wasn't expecting it and only had a small bucket to catch it all (sigh #2). The bike was kept in one of those fabric garage/shelters - not very water tight I guess.

Cleaned up the mess, added new oil and filter, opened up the carb and gave it a cleaning, new battery and fresh gas. The bike would start, sputter and run about 5 seconds, after which smoke would start coming out of the exhaust pipe at the engine block (sigh #3) then stall out. I thought perhaps the pipe was clogged (mouse nest or something) so I decided to remove it. After two hours or wriggling and writhing I realized the hold-down plate at the engine block was bent. Whoever had this bike previously really reefed on the nuts because the plate is obviously bent, making it impossible to remove (sigh #4). I'm giving my co-worker the benefit of the doubt here - he wasn't the first owner.

Questions:
1. Do I need to cut off this hold down plate? If so is it a replaceable part or do I need the whole pipe? I've tried heat but don't want to get to crazy with it.

2. What is a good cleaning method for the exhaust pipe? (Air, rag and a ). This is the portion before the muffler. I've already checked the baffles and they're good.

3. If the pipe isn't the culprit could it be the exhaust valves? Carbon deposits and such? Can I clean that without taking the cylinder head off? (seafoam..?)

4. If this brake switch is simply a faulty part (which happens) can I just remove it altogether from the circuit? Will the bike still operate..?

5. The engine was clearly flooded while it was left stored. Is there anything else I should be checking in terms of water damage? The air box was dry and clean, the carb was also dry.

Thanks for reading. Any help would be appreciated

 

1) I have an idea what you are trying to describe. You should be able to buy a replacement. Possibly you may have to buy a new head pipe though.

2) Sounds right. Some air must be getting through for it to run at all. I would be surprised a mouse or anything could get past the muffler on a stock machine though. Usually they nest in the air box.

3) I have a feeling it isn't the pipe or carbon buildup.

4) yes, you should be able to bypass the brake switch to get the machine running.

5) Are you sure it was water in the oil and not fuel? The machine is air and oil cooled, dry airbox so I am wondering where the water came from? Water is evil to an engines internals. If it was you may be looking at a total rebuild. Gas would be ok, because at least it won't rust anything and once you get it all out should be more or less back to normal. I would buy the cheapest motor oil you can find, and change that again. Try and turn the motor over but not let it fire up (pull the plug cap or something) and change the oil again. You don't mention using a new spark plug. I would replace that as well. If that gets her running, you will need to keep changing the oil a few times until it comes out with no water or fuel. Good luck.

 

You are listing stuff that is familiar to anyone who has worked on an Eiger. The exhaust was over-tightened at the factory, every Eiger I have done a "top end" rebuild on has had the plate bent, this isn't the problem, but it bends the studs, and the plate won't pass over. If you cut it you still wouldn't get a new one on. You have to bend a stud. I have a piece of tube with an M8 thread inside, I screw it on and bend the stud straight. Water and oil mixed goes a milky grey colour, fuel and oil just goes thin, but the Eiger is prone to dumping the tank's contents in the sump if you leave the tap on prime, as the only thing that stops it is the float needle. Hondas etc, have an overflow pipe so fuel that gets past the needle just runs onto the floor. If the engine was full of fuel, the air box will be too, the engine will be running far too rich, so stalls out.

 

Thanks Gents....sorry for the delay.

It was gas in the engine for sure. I followed your directions again and the oil comes out looking like oil. I put the pipe back on.

I still can't get it started though - other reasons now.

It'll turn over, turn over, turn over, not fire. I stop then try again, same thing. Third time I try i just hear a click from the solenoid and the starter doesn't engage. I let it cool down and same thing. Is it the relay, the solenoid or the starter? It's a new battery also.

Thanks again.

 

They are bad to start after being full of fuel as it makes the mixture rich. Don't use the choke and it may be wise to spin the engine over with the plug out a few times to clear it out. If the plug has lots of fuel wetting it, fit a new one.

The starter problem can be either the solenoid or starter brushes. Get a 12v test lamp and put it between the starter live terminal and earth. When the fault is on, if the lamp lights while you press the start button, the starter is faulty, if it doesn't, but the solenoid clicked, it is a faulty solenoid. New starter brush kits are cheap and easy to fit. Non genuine starters are of poor quality, so I always fit new brushes to the original starter if that is the only fault with it.

 

I looked it up and the Eiger sure takes a lot of oil https://atvconnection.com/forums/suz...-plz-help.html 4 quarts (Almost same as a litre) . 1 litre=1.05 quarts.

I changed the oil on many ATVs,350/450 Grizzly,500Sportsman,660 Grizzly,450/500 Foremans and never seen one that needed more than 2 litres.
Your ATV takes almost as much oil as most cars.

I had a Ford F-150 half ton pickup with a 4.9L (300 cubic inch) six cylinder that only took one more litre of oil than your ATV.

A 376cc ATV motor that takes a entire Jug of oil is strange.

 

Most modern Quads take about 3 litres. The Honda 350 only took 2 and we have had lots of them in with piston seizure due to the owners running them short on oil. Don't forget, unlike most cars the oil flows round the gear and/or "transfer" box and the alternator as well as the sump.