Excellent!!!! Thanks Jeff.

 

A lean condition as you are discribing could destroy your piston in a matter of minutes. Temps and differant fuels can change your jetting as well as other things. Please find the problem as I hate to see you having to keep rebuilding the engine.I see that you are premixing your fuel now, you have to jet for your fuel/oil ratio when you get rid of the injecter system. Good Luck

 

Got the quad apart again and it does infact have another hole in the top of the piston. How hard is it to change the seals? Can it be done without splitting the cases? From looking at the pics it looks like it can be done without splitting. Are there any tips or heads up to watch for before we jump into this. The up side is at least the seals are cheap.

 

ok this is a little bit late but its a big pet peeve of mine... its not wiesco it WISECO!! not to be a jackass but just want to help u out wit ur mistakes

 

LOL [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] oops.

 

not totally directed at u a lot of people do it!!

 

As far as I know you do not have to I will check into it and get back to you also if the seals are a hard teflon type of seal normally a brown color they should be installed dry no lube or anything. I will get back to you on both of these things tommorrow.

Jeff
2003 trailblazer 250 RcR stage 1 milled head

 

You don't have to break the case down to change the seals on the 250 - you will have to remove the primary clutch and flywheel though (flywheel side is easier if you get the stator plate out of the way too). Most of the seals you get now-a-days are the black ones - and if they are not pre-greased, add some grease to the seal lip.

I usually take a small drill bit and CAREFULLY bore through the solid face of the old seal, then use a drill and screw (drywall type - grind the very tip off rounded to prevent "digging") to screw into the seal - the screw will bottom out to the bearing or case and actually push (or is that pull) the seal out of the case. A nice clean piece of pipe helps install the new seal.

ps - mark the stator plate with whiteout or some kind of marker before pulling it - gives you a reference to go back with.

 

Thanks quadwrench you saved me from looking it up I have not had a 2 stroke in a while and have not had to do any major reparis to my 250 so I was not sure on the seals. But am I right about the hard teflon seals or was I told worng my sleds have those kind and I put them in dry because I was told too they worked but I don't want to be telling people the worng way. I know it does not apply to the 250 now but just worndering.
Thanks

Jeff

 

That is great news. Thank you so much for the help and the tips guys.

I think this time it will get a 1 over wiseco[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]kit. See im a learn "n"