I know in a tractor tire they used to run fluid, for weight and controll bounce. I was wondering if this would work on an atv. ?? Each tire may hold 1 to 2 gallons each thats roughly 60+ lbs. Just a thought. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Just some difference of opinion here. Air pressure should be high enough that when you spin in your holes are flat. A humped up hole means too little air. Concaved down means too much air. You probably need it closer to 8 lbs. to get a flat hole on a firm track. (Tire ply will affect this as well as weight class.) Also make sure your pressure is even. You'll pull to the left or right if not.

The rear hitch point should be as high as possible given you have enough transferable weight to put on the front end to keep it down. (Front tires should be planted good on a 4x4 and just "dancing" on a 2x4) You're not gonna get anywhere if your front end is in the air because your hitch was too high, because if the front end comes up, the hitch goes down which equals loss of down force. You can lengthen your hitch a little for more down pressure if you've got an abundance of front weight.

You want to get it up and "humpin" as quick as you can, speed and rpm's are key.

Tires with big lugs carry too much dirt, and where does that dirt go..........right into the sled that you are pulling. (By carrying dirt, I mean tires spinning and loosening dirt that piles up in front of the sled.) Shorter sharp lugs will do better so don't run out and buy "Big Ole' Mudders" to go to the local fair. Tall lugs can fold back under force too.

One other thing, don't hop up and down trying to get that extra inch, you'll look like an idiot. A smooth, even, steady pull is the most effective way to get down the track.

 

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Some pulls won't let you add weight or change anything from stock.....there are people that load their tires with water or calcium, as a way of cheating, by making the ATV heavier.

Most Rules have weight limits for classes, in this case, weight in the tires as opposed to putting weight where it's needed, would work against you, as wheels are unslung weight, any rotateing weight or unslung weight that turns robs HP and RPM's.

That is why any weight saveing of rotateing mass (to a point) will increase power...ie lighten flywheel, lightened clutches, driveshafts, wheels and tires.

Theory of pulling, who ever get the sled going the fastest usually wins...so get all the speed you can before the weight starts coming on the pan...this means wide open ASAP.

 

A)listen to shotgun
B) Find an old set of shocks and block them inside so that they can only squat about 1 "
C)You should change your clutching(of course I'm bias on that one,but I have pulled an 02)

 

Helix

What do you recommend as the best spring/weight/Helix setup for the Polaris'

 

For pulls it seemed to work best with stock helix(no money in that huh),our Black EBS spring(stiffer)and 59.5g light tip weights. The Black /orange primary spring seemed best with those weights,not because we wanted any extra engagement at all,but because it held low ratio better in the early part of the pull with those weights.
This set up would not be a good trail set up ,but a few simple changes could convert it to one.
The new EFI may be different,as it has the TEAM sec clutch. I have some components ready to test on this model(for trail applications) if the snow ever leaves in NS.