Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

tb clutching question

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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:00 PM
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Default tb clutching question

I just put it back together and had it running in neutral when i just touch the gas it engages and i have a polaris green primary and when it's at a little over 1/4 throttle it's fully shifted out is this normal?? now mind you this is in neutral is this a accurate reading or not i thought the green would have more stall then the white but the white barely did and improvement over the stock blue green what spring would all you quad gods suggest thanks
 
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:13 PM
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Default tb clutching question

Hey tweek, what pipe do you have on that bike, and how is it ported? Did a shop port it for you? Those questions will be the biggest ones in deciding on what primary spring. The clutching has to be matched for the pipe.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:23 PM
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Default tb clutching question

lol well bubba lets see the bike is a experiment i have used a pipe off of a kx 250 people may laff but that thing made a huge diff unbeleveable as far as the porting i did it just cleaned up the bottoms off the transfer ports at the bottom of the cyclinder and put a 2mm spacer under the cylinder decked and did some head work have to go pick up my son from gun safty training be back in a little while later
 
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:39 PM
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Default tb clutching question

Hollar back when you get in. If the stroke on the KX and the TB is the same, then I dont see any problem with it. Even it it runs better then it's a plus. With the additional 2mm raise in exhaust and transfers, you should have lowered the intake ports at least that amount to compensate and allow for more intake duration. Your gonna need a few springs to work with. The green is still going to be real mild. You might need to start with a spring such as the polaris Brown with the stock 55 weights from a scrambler. The 10mw are a 46gram weight, and those are awefully light. The polaris yellow or orange might be the best choice for those. You need to get the top rpms up for that much exhuast and transfer duration. The 10al weights with the plain HPD spring will give a good engagement and a top rpm of about 6700 give or take. You are at a guessing stage right now without knowing exactly where the pipe makes it's power at. That's the biggest difference between the Polaris pipes and others. They are designed to run the most HP at a peak RPM and give good service everywhere else, basically just for the CVT. The other pipes might lack in other areas. Trial and error is what it's all about, but it sonds like you need more spring. That would explain the fast shift out also.Hope this helps,Bubba
 
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 11:06 PM
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Default tb clutching question

ok I am back i thought about doing what you said about the intake ports but wasn't sure so i left them alone it's no bigg deal to pull the cylinder back off and lower the ports so i will do that thanks for the advice i like trying different things and don't mind the trial and error part but the wife on the other hand [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] lol hehe where will I see the affect of the 2mm spacer if any i am thinking on the top end?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 09:38 AM
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Default tb clutching question

Upper mid to top end mostly. Lowering the intake ports will help bring the bottom end back around too. Dont go too far or else you'll have a big bog on the bottom. I would say maybe 3mm to make up the difference. You can widen them also several mm's and that will help fill the cylinder better. You definitely need more spring it sounds like to me.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 02:27 PM
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Default tb clutching question

ok thanks a bunch that makes sense i will do that tonight thanks alot for all your help your a good guy to have around this forum oh and one more thing i was told that if i take and machine the surface where the intake boot bolts on to the block and get the carb closer to the cylinder with in reason it will help out the throttle response sounds correct just wondering if anyone has done it thanks again
 
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