Strange 700 EFI Performance Issue today
#22
I have the 700 EFI and have added the ITP 589/ wheel and tire package. I had to put a 1 inch lift in the front because the tires would hit the fenders when going over rough terrain. I love the tires and we tested several before I made my choice. I also have the K&N filter and didn't notice and performance increase. We do a lot of creek riding and at first I was afraid of submerging the electronics but after having it completely under many times, I've encountered no problems. The EFI will have it's bugs and if you haven't noticed, the other manufacturers have followed suit with their EFI models.
Good luck and ride on,
Liftman
Good luck and ride on,
Liftman
#24
well I've had my quad back for a couple of weeks now. got about 90 miles on it now and wanted to let you all know it's running fine. have had no problems with it since I've gotten it back unless you want to start bitching about the clutch noise. yes I know It's an ongoing battle to get rid of the clutch noise but damn ya know when you spend 7250 on the quad you shouldn't have to listen to that crap, sounds like the engines gonna blow into pieces or something. I don't want to give any of you guys the wrong impression, I love my quad and it just got it's first bath(with soap) the other day to get all the mud off it. I have been trailriding and going through mud thats about 2 feet deep back in the swamp ponds. the machine handled great as I treaded through it. last night I made up four headlight conversion kits and am going to install two of them on my two 700 EFI's tonight. for instructions and parts list go to utility section and look for my topic posted or at end of this reply, simple kit to make and install. I got help from others in the forum and would like to thank them all for their help. I can't believe all those damn ebayers tryin to get rich off a couple pieces of wire and a diode. ha ha ha. well hopefully the post gets around and other people can start making their own. I am going to also purchase the new lock and ride grip guards from pure polaris, they are only $39 a set. big price drop seeings how the original ones are $49.
*****these directions will allow you to build your own headlight conversion kit to allow you to use the two lower headlights with the low beam activated and allow all three lights to turn on when the high beam is activated. the wire colors are for polaris but the kit will work with all quads with three headlights.
PARTS NEEDED ARE AS FOLLOWS:
6 amp. rectifier/diode(radio shack part number 276-1661)comes in pkg. of four.
6" of yellow wire
6" of green wire
heat shrink connectors or butt connectors
heat shrink tubing.
2 scotch lock connectors
start by using the heatshrink/butt connectors to connect the colored wires to the diode. if using the diodes from radio shack the green wire will connect to the end of the diode with the silver stripe while the yellow wire will connect to the black end of the diode. use heat shrink tubing to cover the connections and diode from moisture and dirt. use the scotch locks to connect color coded wires to headlight wires in factory harness. this harness is located under the gauge pod. green to green and yellow to yellow.
If using diodes other than ones from radioshack make sure flow goes from green wire to yellow. this will allow current to flow through green(high beam) wire and over to the yellow(low beam) wire while the high beams are on.
*****this "kit" was discovered by other forum members and is now being passed on to you for free so we can all stop making those freekin ebayers rich off of $3.00 worth of supplies.*****
*****these directions will allow you to build your own headlight conversion kit to allow you to use the two lower headlights with the low beam activated and allow all three lights to turn on when the high beam is activated. the wire colors are for polaris but the kit will work with all quads with three headlights.
PARTS NEEDED ARE AS FOLLOWS:
6 amp. rectifier/diode(radio shack part number 276-1661)comes in pkg. of four.
6" of yellow wire
6" of green wire
heat shrink connectors or butt connectors
heat shrink tubing.
2 scotch lock connectors
start by using the heatshrink/butt connectors to connect the colored wires to the diode. if using the diodes from radio shack the green wire will connect to the end of the diode with the silver stripe while the yellow wire will connect to the black end of the diode. use heat shrink tubing to cover the connections and diode from moisture and dirt. use the scotch locks to connect color coded wires to headlight wires in factory harness. this harness is located under the gauge pod. green to green and yellow to yellow.
If using diodes other than ones from radioshack make sure flow goes from green wire to yellow. this will allow current to flow through green(high beam) wire and over to the yellow(low beam) wire while the high beams are on.
*****this "kit" was discovered by other forum members and is now being passed on to you for free so we can all stop making those freekin ebayers rich off of $3.00 worth of supplies.*****
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