This is what I was looking for....
It's a cut and paste

Three main reason the cam flattens in the 500 and 425's.

1. When starting do not rev the motor. Keep the rpm's low as possible until the top end get lubrication. Juicing the throttle to bring up rpm's to 3-5,000rpm when starting, even when warm, or tearing off down the road immediately after startup, increases the chance of flattening the cam.

2. Wrong grade oil that is too thick on start up so the cam starves more than it should. If using wrong grade, with revving the motor when starting, pretty much a guarantee you'll be swapping cams out quickly.

3. Using wrong filter with no anti-drain back valve. If your filter doesn't hold oil, every time your start your filter needs to re-fill before your top end sees lubrication. More cam-eating starvation here.


So, to cover your tracks.

1- use 0w40 synthetic, that meet's Polaris specs.
2-use a Polaris oil filter, or another filter than is a direct cross reference to a Polaris filter. For safe measure, avoid Fram all together.. As a general rule Fram sucks. Wix, Purolator, K&N, Amsoil filters are safe.
3-Do not rev ethe motor on startup. Keep revs low as possible for 3-5 seconds every time you start it. Give your top end time to get lubrication before applying throttle.

Keep these items in check, you shouldn't have any problems. If you still do, then there's something wrong mechanically with the engine.

 

It always floors me that you guys will pay $7000 for a machine and then cheap out on a filter you replace a couple times a year and risk causing damage to your motor.

 

Wix makes the Napa Gold filter. That is the one I use. About $8 here. And my local Autozone and Advanced Autoparts both carry the Mobil 1 0W-40. My local snowmobile shop stocks the Amsoil 0w-40 too.

 

wix and napa are the same i would stay away from fram filtersno matter what they cost they are junk probaly the worst filter you can buy

 

Expanding on Hydro's comment, if you don't know what you're getting, why risk motor damage? I ALWAYS use OEM oil filter, even when out of warranty. Why? Because there're a lot of parameters you don't know about, like the pressure relief valve spec, anti-drain valve (extremely important, otherwise you're wearing your motor EVERY time you start it), etc. I do all the maintenance myself on my vehicles, and don't mind buying cheaper air filters for example (no rocket science there), but always stick with OEM oil filters. You can find a discount dealer and get it mailed to your door (I do that all the time). I usually get 3 or 4 at a time, and don't worry about them for years.
Your choice, but for $4 savings, you're playing with fire IMHO. And yes, synthetic is best. And a 5/30 oil shouldn't be a problem at all unless you live in the north pole (check the manual; there's usually a range of viscosities with different operating temperatures).
Happy new year everyboby.
JC

 

Here's the Spec's on the Wix Filter, it has the Anti-Drain back valve.

Part Number: 51357
UPC Number: 765809513570
Principal Application: Ford Probe (89-97), Mazda Cars & Trucks (83-96), Kia Sportage (95-02) All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.402
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 2.173 0.233

 

OK, so I called FRAM, and they suggested I don't use there filter for the 700. As they don't make one for it yet and the one I asked about (ph5343) has an anti-syphon valve on it, which isn't right. So I'll be returning the 2 I bought the other day. But the wix filter I installed is good for the 700, it's listed on the web site for use on the 700.