I need help understanding on how they work. How to pick one. Do you pick one for riding style or to match HP and Torque? Maybe both.

Thanks for your Info

 

You know, If you had posted this question at Rec.Sport.Snowmobiles at Deja.com you would already have at least 10 answers by now.

For some reason, ATV helix pioneers are few and far between on the ATV Connection, Those with inquiring minds lean toward HotSeat, HPD, AAEN, and a few others for prefabricated kits.

In the 4 years which I have been reading this forum I don't recall a heated discussion on straight vs angled helixs and driven clutch springs.

None of the ATV magazines have approached these discussions either. The only thing that I recall seeing was an article about an EPI clutch kit in a Polaris Express 300. The article however was not technical.

Maybe you have started something here and are the catalyst for a forthcoming great discussion. Good luck.

 

If you really want to understand the Polaris system you need to buy AAEN's clutch tuning book. It goes over every single part of the drive and driven clutch and explains what each part does and how to tune it for what type of riding you do. There is plenty of info on how the helix works, what the different angles do, etc.

 

<< If you really want to understand the Polaris system you need to buy AAEN's clutch tuning book. It goes over every single part of the drive and driven clutch and explains what each part does and how to tune it for what type of riding you do. There is plenty of info on how the helix works, what the different angles do, etc. >>



Sounds like good information! But what about the rest of the readers out there? Are the snowmobilers at Google.com the only ones experienced with more than &quot;green springs&quot; around here? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] LOL

 

I am no expert by no means but, I have worked on quite a few of these clutches over the last couple of years. I have modified my own clutch so many times now that I don't even remember my factory settings,weights, or springs. I do have all this written down somewhere?
This is my overview of the whole clutching idea:
It is all in the eye of the beholder. YES, it dose depend on riding style. YES, it does depend on the machines HP and torque. YES, it does depend on what the rider thinks he likes. Honestly their is no ONE single clutch kit that everyone will like.
Most of clutch work I've done, for myself or for any one else, I've done by just buying a couple of pieces(springs,weights or helixes) that I needed. The only time I've ever boughten a clutch kit was when customers of mine destroyed their origonal clutch and I had nothing to work with.
You can go buy a clutch kit from someone(HPD, EPI,..etc),spend $150-$250 and get better performance wether it be for utility or sport use. The thing is, that you could have gotten basically the same thing or even better by just buying a couple of pieces instead of someone else's kit. The one thing you have always got to bare in mind is that clutches are a give and take setup. Meaning that if you gain in performance in one area, then you're going to lose in performance in another area. This is not always true but for the most part, it is.
It's always best to have the quad your working on in front of you along with the owner beside you telling you want it is he wishes to change or make better. Even though I won't be able to see all that you are doing, I'll still be willing to share my knowledge with you. So, if you have a question or two just ask.
As for the question that you posted(What helix am I using?), I am still running the stock helix in my machine. It is a 44/36. I have been thinking about going to a 44/40 but I'm going to wait until I go back down to my origonal tire size. I am running oversized tires in the back and I want to keep as much back shift as I can.

 

Sounds good to me!

 

I myself am running a steeper ramp helix than stock because my power comes on quicker with my pipe and header,I also run a 55/216 primary spring (engage at 55 shiftout at 216) very good spring I am running also a little stiffer spring in the secondary in the 2/2 postion so I do not get into top gear to quick with a resonable backshift.
I also find wieghts make a huge diffrence right now I am running 47 gram they will tend to smoke a belt if under load doubling if you are in a technical place where punching the throttle is not advised... But with just me they work great gain a little RPM's with lighter weights I also have 46 gram ones but barley use them and have 56 gram ones for doubling they hit alot harder but I loose a little in RPM's not in the peak.
All these factors will be needed to find what you need there is no one perfect setup .Trial and error is the key. try diff bikes out ask there setting find one you like and start from there.
I wish I could help you out more but this is just one of those things that take time to figure out.
The factory settings are not bad if your bike is stock.