Swap the red/yellow primary that came with the HPD kit & put in an HPD solid BLUE. I just helped a friend of mine with his 2000 TB doing the same thing. He had the exact same set-up as yours. Ran really well at first, then when the engine got good & hot, it lost bottom end power & bogged at slow speeds. We put in the HPD blue & what a difference!!! No lag at all. Make the little 250 a real blast to drive. The blue primary puts the engagement right where the pipe starts to come on & it rips now.

As far as the running better when the engine is "cold", that is par for the course on any air cooled engine. The hotter any engine gets, the less power it will ultimately produce. This is why higher performance engines are generally liquid cooled.

 

I cant really call rick, Im in Australia, & it means getting up in the middle of the nite.

I will try the blue spring...

 

I agree with the liquid part. They can add more horsepower without the threat of detonation. I'm not sure about aircooled losing that much hp just because it's hot. It still sounds like you are trying to change a shift point or engagement rpm to compensate for something else that might be happening.
Call Rick anyway, that would be a good laugh. I'm sure he has an answering machine.

 

I have sent Rick an email & left a PM on this site for him, if someone could let him know I need a reply that would be great, & it would save me getting up at 3am....

 

mines the same way as yours. the motors losing power when it warms up and its losing that snap. your not losing rpms on engagement just power. a higher engaging clutch spring will help i would think. a solid blue is very very high engagement though. its up there with the violet drag race spring. do u know what spring u have now? a red spring should be more than enough with say a set of either S55s or 10-56 gram weights. u might have to make another late night phone call to get it all figured out. good luck

 

I'll agree that the blue ups the engagement a bit from the red/yellow. But, like I stated before, it puts the engine right where it needs to be for power. This guy I'm sure wants to cure the problem for the least amount of money, & adding in the price of different weights just adds more cost.

I'm not sayiong that you're wrong. With different weights & a weaker spring it would work also. I'm just saying that I can attest to just swapping a primary spring will make all the difference for cheaper. IMHO, HPD didn't include the blue spring in the kit from the start for liability reasons. I'm sure they didn't want some schmuck with no experience installing a clutch kit & the first time he/she nails the throttle it flips over backwards on them. And it WILL do it with the blue spring.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

A friend of mines daughter had got a RcR pipe and he had the HPD plain spring and it didn't seem to run all that good with that spring. I had a red/yellow in the tool box and WOW what a difference it made when we put it on.

 

I have been talking with Rick & he has been extremely helpful, we are messing with mixtures & c hecking the secondary clutch, I will give you all an update as they come in.

I must say, Ricks service is the best I have come accross in this, or any other industry, he more than earns every good word said about him here.....

 

I totally agree!! He's done stuff for me and I've bought stuff from him for around 3 years now and tell everyone I talk to that asks me "What did do you to make that Polaris run like that".[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Rebuild the sucker, It is most likely losing compression as the engine heats up. Iv got 3 TBs and they all acted the same way before the rebuilds. They are cheap to rebuild and offer lots of intervals for boring. .020 .040.050.060.080.100. lots of boring options. I got some good self porting specs, pm me if interested.