Un-even brake wear...again!
#1
I just took off the wheels on my Xplorer and noticed that my front brakes are wearing out on the top and not the bottom.
Is there something I can do myself to fix this? Could it be that the lower part of the caliper is not pushing right because of muck or rust??
Half of my brake pads are at full thickness and the front/top part is almost used up!
Is there something I can do myself to fix this? Could it be that the lower part of the caliper is not pushing right because of muck or rust??
Half of my brake pads are at full thickness and the front/top part is almost used up!
#2
The uneven brake wear can be adjusted somewhat by backing out the hex head adjustment screw.
When you you put on brand new pads; have somebody squeeze the brake lever and then tighten up the screw so that it is just slightly snug using some non-permanent locktite.
When you you put on brand new pads; have somebody squeeze the brake lever and then tighten up the screw so that it is just slightly snug using some non-permanent locktite.
#3
Xplor
I am not a brake expert, but I will give you some of my thoughts. You say that the pad is wearing out on the top and not the bottom. If the caliber was sticking or not working properly, the entire pad would be worn. If the pad was not sliding properly on the top pins, this could be the cause as the pad would not retract properly on the top. I would remove the pads and completely clean the caliber with brake cleaner(be careful, this stuff is caustic). I do this once a year just for kicks. Take the pins and using some fine sandpaper or steel wool, attempt to smooth them up so the pads will slide easily. I would not put any lubricant on these as it may leak back onto the pads. Upon reassembly, make sure you adjust the set screw properly to allow the proper amount of movement. Finish by bleeding the brakes out really good after all reassembly is done. I would also inspect and clean the rotors prior to reassembly. Make sure they are clean and not gouged up. Hope this helps.
I am not a brake expert, but I will give you some of my thoughts. You say that the pad is wearing out on the top and not the bottom. If the caliber was sticking or not working properly, the entire pad would be worn. If the pad was not sliding properly on the top pins, this could be the cause as the pad would not retract properly on the top. I would remove the pads and completely clean the caliber with brake cleaner(be careful, this stuff is caustic). I do this once a year just for kicks. Take the pins and using some fine sandpaper or steel wool, attempt to smooth them up so the pads will slide easily. I would not put any lubricant on these as it may leak back onto the pads. Upon reassembly, make sure you adjust the set screw properly to allow the proper amount of movement. Finish by bleeding the brakes out really good after all reassembly is done. I would also inspect and clean the rotors prior to reassembly. Make sure they are clean and not gouged up. Hope this helps.
#4
MMM,
I have been changing disk brakes on cars/trucks/atv's for quite a while, and never bleed the brakes. What is the benefit of bleeding? I just remove the lid on the reservior and compress the brake piston(s) back in. I never open the bleeder screw. Thanks.
I have been changing disk brakes on cars/trucks/atv's for quite a while, and never bleed the brakes. What is the benefit of bleeding? I just remove the lid on the reservior and compress the brake piston(s) back in. I never open the bleeder screw. Thanks.
#5
Waylan
Like I said, I am no brake expert. My Magnum wore the front breaks out in the first 100 miles. I took it back to the dealer and they could find nothing wrong. The mechanic told me that bleeding the brakes regularly will keep them from sticking and it will keep the master cylinder working properly. I have been bleeding the brakes regularly ever since and have not changed the pads in over 500 miles (and these were regular Polaris replacement pads). I don't know the mechanics of why the bleeding helps, maybe it doesn't at all, but its easy to do and only cost a few cents each time I do it, so I will continue to do it. If someone better understands the Polaris master cylinder system, I would appreciate their response as to whether bleeding the brakes is helpful or a waste of time.
Like I said, I am no brake expert. My Magnum wore the front breaks out in the first 100 miles. I took it back to the dealer and they could find nothing wrong. The mechanic told me that bleeding the brakes regularly will keep them from sticking and it will keep the master cylinder working properly. I have been bleeding the brakes regularly ever since and have not changed the pads in over 500 miles (and these were regular Polaris replacement pads). I don't know the mechanics of why the bleeding helps, maybe it doesn't at all, but its easy to do and only cost a few cents each time I do it, so I will continue to do it. If someone better understands the Polaris master cylinder system, I would appreciate their response as to whether bleeding the brakes is helpful or a waste of time.
#6
to the best of my knowledge bleeding brakes only does one thing,removes air from the system..to me that means unless you open a bleeder then bleeding is of no use..just my 2 cents.. the problem on hand sounds like it was said before,top allen adjusting screw is in too far causing the top of the pad to wear sooner than the bottom
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oliveiracarlos
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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Sep 7, 2015 03:39 AM
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