Clutch help BUBBA
#21
sorry I just went back to thr royal distributing website and it is much less around $400 canadian depending on which silencer
http://www.royaldistributing.com/ser...49&submit.y=13
page 93
http://www.royaldistributing.com/ser...49&submit.y=13
page 93
#23
That's it. I realize now I was thinking about the Cyclone pipe they make, but don't list. Sorry I got them mixed up. I do recomend getting a pipe for it. Your clutching is gonna be hard, because your running a hot top end with a low output pipe.
#24
ya I know
I should know better from all the years of modifying my snowmobiles but I'm kind of trying to get the parts I have working as good as possible so I can sell it and start a winter project
I'm hoping to find a 400 scrambler 4x4 that needs work build it into something hairy!!!!
I should know better from all the years of modifying my snowmobiles but I'm kind of trying to get the parts I have working as good as possible so I can sell it and start a winter project
I'm hoping to find a 400 scrambler 4x4 that needs work build it into something hairy!!!!
#25
ok these clutches are crazy to work on
I started with "16" weights stock and the belt side clearance was perfect
went to "F" weights and had to remove a ton of shims from the spider just to get to the max side clearance
NOW I have put in "10MB" weights and I have at least .080 side clearance
??!?!?!
anyone??
I started with "16" weights stock and the belt side clearance was perfect
went to "F" weights and had to remove a ton of shims from the spider just to get to the max side clearance
NOW I have put in "10MB" weights and I have at least .080 side clearance
??!?!?!
anyone??
#26
are the rollers supposed to touch the weights when the clutch is at rest (engine off) or should their be a little free play between the weight and roller???
or is the movable shive supposed to bottom against the spider???
or is the movable shive supposed to bottom against the spider???
#27
On the atv clutches, if you use the 10 series style weights (race weights), then you have to discard the small thick clutch washer on the clutch bolt and use a snowmobile larger thinner washer. That pushes the outer sheave in just a little to make up the clearance difference. I have ran it the other way before and usually all I have found is that it causes a higher rougher engagement and will also affect shiftout slightly.
#28
I will have to discard that steped spacer that is in the end of the clutch for that to work
I don't reallr see a purpose for it as it only fits tight into the end of the clutch shaft and not on the bolt
I don't reallr see a purpose for it as it only fits tight into the end of the clutch shaft and not on the bolt
#30
it works good shifts out all the way
seems a little lazy out of the hole and I think in high range in the mud it would probably slip the belt
I think I might order some "G" weights and try them
maybe try a different spring
seems a little lazy out of the hole and I think in high range in the mud it would probably slip the belt
I think I might order some "G" weights and try them
maybe try a different spring


