Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

Clutch help BUBBA

Old Aug 12, 2005 | 01:42 AM
  #21  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

sorry I just went back to thr royal distributing website and it is much less around $400 canadian depending on which silencer

http://www.royaldistributing.com/ser...49&submit.y=13

page 93
 
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 01:55 AM
  #22  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

without the pipe I don't think I could run the factory cyclone calibrations

I think I'm on the right track by adding weight
going to try 2-2 on the secondary also
 
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 02:10 AM
  #23  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

That's it. I realize now I was thinking about the Cyclone pipe they make, but don't list. Sorry I got them mixed up. I do recomend getting a pipe for it. Your clutching is gonna be hard, because your running a hot top end with a low output pipe.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 02:24 AM
  #24  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

ya I know
I should know better from all the years of modifying my snowmobiles but I'm kind of trying to get the parts I have working as good as possible so I can sell it and start a winter project
I'm hoping to find a 400 scrambler 4x4 that needs work build it into something hairy!!!!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 01:58 AM
  #25  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

ok these clutches are crazy to work on
I started with "16" weights stock and the belt side clearance was perfect
went to "F" weights and had to remove a ton of shims from the spider just to get to the max side clearance
NOW I have put in "10MB" weights and I have at least .080 side clearance
??!?!?!


anyone??

 
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 02:39 AM
  #26  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

are the rollers supposed to touch the weights when the clutch is at rest (engine off) or should their be a little free play between the weight and roller???
or is the movable shive supposed to bottom against the spider???
 
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:32 AM
  #27  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

On the atv clutches, if you use the 10 series style weights (race weights), then you have to discard the small thick clutch washer on the clutch bolt and use a snowmobile larger thinner washer. That pushes the outer sheave in just a little to make up the clearance difference. I have ran it the other way before and usually all I have found is that it causes a higher rougher engagement and will also affect shiftout slightly.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 11:49 AM
  #28  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

I will have to discard that steped spacer that is in the end of the clutch for that to work
I don't reallr see a purpose for it as it only fits tight into the end of the clutch shaft and not on the bolt
 
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 01:30 PM
  #29  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

ok
10MB
white primary
violet secondary
36/40 HDP helix
2-3 tension
.020 belt side clearance

still a little early to road test up the alley but I will in about a 1/2 hour or so!!!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 02:43 PM
  #30  
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Default Clutch help BUBBA

it works good shifts out all the way

seems a little lazy out of the hole and I think in high range in the mud it would probably slip the belt

I think I might order some "G" weights and try them

maybe try a different spring
 
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