just got new rear master cylinder and dead again!!!wtf
#1
just got new rear master cylinder and dead again!!!wtf
ever since i have had my scarmmy for a year now i could never bleed my back brakes and never get them to work, so i figured iw ould order a new one for christmas since u cannot rebuild them type.
so i installed it a few days ago and worked fine riding around the property(10acres) for about a half an hour and then the next day riding around a little on/off. then, today, i left for a real ride and they are dead again. nothing, exactly like before. is this a common problem? am i going to have to sit and bleed them out before every ride. if so that really sucks. has anyone found a way to prevent this?
so i installed it a few days ago and worked fine riding around the property(10acres) for about a half an hour and then the next day riding around a little on/off. then, today, i left for a real ride and they are dead again. nothing, exactly like before. is this a common problem? am i going to have to sit and bleed them out before every ride. if so that really sucks. has anyone found a way to prevent this?
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#4
just got new rear master cylinder and dead again!!!wtf
A good master cylender should not re-introduce air into a properly bled brake system. The question is, was the system fully bled of <u>all</u> of the air? There could have been very small air bubbles that were dispersed throughout the system, and after riding for a while, they combined into a large air bubble, causing poor braking.
The best brake bleeder system that I have seen, is one that is powered by compressed air. The compressed air creates a vacume in a canister, and a hose from the canister is attached to the bleeder valve on the caliper. You then open the bleeder and suck the fluid through the system, while keeping the master full of fluid.
Hope that helps.
(BTW, I assume that the proper DOT fluid is being used.)
The best brake bleeder system that I have seen, is one that is powered by compressed air. The compressed air creates a vacume in a canister, and a hose from the canister is attached to the bleeder valve on the caliper. You then open the bleeder and suck the fluid through the system, while keeping the master full of fluid.
Hope that helps.
(BTW, I assume that the proper DOT fluid is being used.)
#5
just got new rear master cylinder and dead again!!!wtf
Are you using new crush washers on the banjo bolts ? Maybe it's not your master, and you're sucking air through bad fittings, bad hose, or a bad caliper. When I changed the front brake line on my Harley it was a pain in the @ss to properly bleed the brakes. I ended up taking the line off the caliper and putting it in a cup of brake fluid then "pumping" the brakes. It still didn't get all the air, so I pinched the banjo fitting between my thumb and index fingers. I'd "pump" up some pressure, then with the lever pulled in I released my fingers and pinched it again. I did this until I had the master and hose bled then I hooked it back up and bled the caliper. Worked great, my front brakes worked better than the did with the other line. New line was a braided stainless though, so less flex.
#6
just got new rear master cylinder and dead again!!!wtf
Hey garrett5462,
That is a very common problem with the Polaris. The same thing happens to me all the time when it sits for awhile. Some reason it keeps losing its prime. Half of the time I don't bother with it because you still have rear brakes with the hand brake lever. Use a vacume bleeder to bleed it. It seems to work the best. If you still have a hard time bleeding it, then just take the rear caliper off its mount and hold it above the master and bleed it. Just remember to stick a shim or something between the brake pads if you pump bleed it.
That is a very common problem with the Polaris. The same thing happens to me all the time when it sits for awhile. Some reason it keeps losing its prime. Half of the time I don't bother with it because you still have rear brakes with the hand brake lever. Use a vacume bleeder to bleed it. It seems to work the best. If you still have a hard time bleeding it, then just take the rear caliper off its mount and hold it above the master and bleed it. Just remember to stick a shim or something between the brake pads if you pump bleed it.
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#9
just got new rear master cylinder and dead again!!!wtf
common problem!!!! Like I said before in another post about the same thing I only could find two ways of fixxing this problem.HOT SEAT makes a brake slit kit,it has a hand brake for the rear brake.The kit can be hooked up a few differant ways.The other fix would be to change the master cylinder to a Honda type of yamaha type.I believe the honda type has the bolt holes on the same side.This is the only way to fix this problem ,,Unless we all start bitching to polaris to recall the quads for this problem.
#10
just got new rear master cylinder and dead again!!!wtf
Originally posted by: Fixitmatt
common problem!!!! Like I said before in another post about the same thing I only could find two ways of fixxing this problem.HOT SEAT makes a brake slit kit,it has a hand brake for the rear brake.The kit can be hooked up a few differant ways.The other fix would be to change the master cylinder to a Honda type of yamaha type.I believe the honda type has the bolt holes on the same side.This is the only way to fix this problem ,,Unless we all start bitching to polaris to recall the quads for this problem.
common problem!!!! Like I said before in another post about the same thing I only could find two ways of fixxing this problem.HOT SEAT makes a brake slit kit,it has a hand brake for the rear brake.The kit can be hooked up a few differant ways.The other fix would be to change the master cylinder to a Honda type of yamaha type.I believe the honda type has the bolt holes on the same side.This is the only way to fix this problem ,,Unless we all start bitching to polaris to recall the quads for this problem.