Completed the install last night and was able to take it for a spin on the street in front of my house.

Intial thoughts - I wasn't as wow'd as some people have seemed to be on my first run. It did seem to pull harder through the midrange and inital engagement seemed to be a little better, but in my case still seems high. I still have the feeling that I'm spinning the motor more than I should and not putting all the power to the wheels. I used the stock Polaris spring in the primary and full engagement seems to be around 1700-1900 rpm. In my opinion this seems high. I am currently working with Cob to see if I've got a problem or if this is normal.

I have had the chance to ride a couple of Grizz 660's that are owned by my relatives and the engagement on the Yamaha's seem much better. I don't get that feeling that there's hp that isn't being applied to the wheels.

From what I've been told is you really don't get full justice of the install until you hit the trails. I hope to get some additional seat time this weekend and will see how things go then. I also will be trying the different springs that come with the kit to see if those are any better.

More coming later.


Todd

 

Ok, first thing the rpm engagement you spoke of is high. Mines starts to pull at about 12-1300 rpms with the stock blue spring. If there is something wrong, cob will help you. I had to grind the little leg off the weight so the weight would rest flat on the spider, but I did not have to do the clutch modification. Make sure when fully extended, the weights make full contact with the rollers, and when resting they make contact with the spider. Cob has photos and more details on this.
Now, for the yamaha clutching. It is a completely different animal. Yamaha and Suzuki are very similar if not exactly the same. The use a wet clutch system, which keeps the belt tight constantly. They do not have to worry about wearing a spot in the belt like the polaris clutching is. This is a better system, imo, however, it is not a tunable as the polaris clutching.

 

Do not waste your time with the other springs that came with the kit, unless you plan to race. They will only raise your engagement even higher than what it is now. The stock spring is going to give you the lowest engagement, the hc white spring will raise it between 3 to 500 more rpms, and the orange will put you over 3k rpms at engagement. If you want a close to stock engagement with a little more full shift out, the EPI maroon is your spring. It will be a bout 100rpms higher than the stock spring. For trail riding, I highly suggest you keep the stock spring in. When you are trying to do technical stuff that you don't exactly need low range, it is really aggrivating to try to keep the rpms up enough to keep the wheels rolling like the hc white spring will give you.

 

ppope,

Thanks for the replies. When I got my kit, the legs were already grinded off. If I get some time this weekend I'll check on the tolerances for the rollers and see if the clutch needs to be motified. From what I've read though, the clutch grinding seems to be only on the older models.

As far as the other springs, I wanted to test them so I had an understanding of the results that came from using them. I understand the intial engagement will rise, but I just wanted to be able to know what the results were so I could help others in the future and be able to have a better understanding myself. More than anything, I just need to get some additional seat time. I spent about 10 minutes riding at 10pm last night up and down my street. Hard to get a real good feel for it in that short of time under those conditions. Hopefully I'll have more knowledge once I get it out to the trails.


Todd

 

I started with the Stock spring and moved to a Polaris white, before finally setteling in on the Orange that came with the kit. The Orange gives a much better midr ange punch, and slightly better take off.
With the Stock Primary, youll notice your loosing quite a few RPMS, as compared to the stock setup.
WHich means your Not producing as much HP as the stock setup (less RPMS). The Trick is to play with the weights, and springs to get your engagement where you want it, and still pull near full RPMS through full shiftout. Just play with it a bit.

Still sounds like your Slipping a bit, the most simple thing to do first would be to measure your original belt and make sure its within Spec, then check your deflection (tightness).

 

I agree with ktmguy70. You are not acheiving the optimal performance of the kit, or you machine by using the stock spring, however, it sounded as if you didn't want a high engagement. You need to decide what you want and like. Obviously, you can't have the best of both, (low engagement and full performance). I am not familiar with how this kit works on any of the twins, but I have done every option available with the kit on the singles. I have to tell you again that after MUCH MUCH time spent adjusting, changing, etc. if you plan to ride any type of technical trails, you'll hate having a high engagement spring. I understand you want to experience it yourself, so keep us posted on what you find with the other springs.

 

I put a new belt on when I did the switch. Any specifics on checking deflection?? (newbie here).


Thanks,

Todd

 

problem,

Glad you brought this topic up I have been considering the HC.

Todd, You mentioned you put a new belt on. Was this a polaris belt or an aftermarket brand belt? It seems like I read on the forum where someone had replaced their belt with an aftermarket one of better quality?

 

Thanks Goose
I have read the same thing about the belts refering to the aftermarket......But keep letting us know your results... Cobb has mine in the mail and i plan to keep watching and talking to him about the H/C.....

 

I'm using the Polaris belt. From what I've read, the opinions on the aftermarket belts have been mixed. I've also seen posts where some had problems using the aftermarket ones with the H/C.


Todd