Rick has a computer. He can come out and say it on this forum. I would rather hear it from Rick then some little smack talker.

 

gunman457, I'm sure polarisfreak or 16polaris will give you more than you want. If that isnt enough for you come on down to the spring national at Little Sandy in Grayson, Ky. and get you some of this
K & M Racing

 

Sorry, but none of you are worth my time.

 

Man listen I am no little smack talker. You came on here mouthing about polaris and that money was wasted building a polaris and you could buy a real quad with the money that was spent on our mods. I understand you had some parts that did not last from hpd and for that you are upset. That's fine, but you got this thread totally off what it was intended for and us polaris guys let it get to far by responding to you. I'm a grown man just like I assume you are and love riding just as much as I'm sure you do. I wasn't here to offend anyone or talk bad about anyone's quads. I just simply stated the facts that a race mod 400 would outrun a 700 with the mods you have. At least it will in the sand and at the dirt drags I have ran at. Most v's run in the 5.6-5.7 range at the track I run at, my quad runs a 5.4 which isn't a world beater time in itself. Rick stated what I said he did and I'm sure he will chime in. I also had a lengthy converation with Darrell at HPD today and what he had to say actually sided with you a little, I'm sure you hate to hear that as bad as you hate HPD. He said your typical dynojet dyno will not read accurate do the the fact of the constant upshift and downshift that the pvt system does. He said a brake type (load dyno) might give you a close to accurate reading if the load that was programmed into the machine was the same load you would get as riding, but that it didn't happen very often. He said a rear wheel dyno that went off torque readings would give an accurate dyno because those type go off a set rpm or speed and they do no use acceleration rates in there dyno reading thus the clutchs would not be upshifting and downshifting but staying at a constant speed or rpm. So technically I was wrong they can be rear wheel dynoed just not on most of the popular dynos around. SO I STAND CORRECTED.

 

Gunman -

Geesh friend – you remind me of the guy who brought a knife to a gun fight and wanted to argue his way out of it.

Generally speaking - respect comes from the value that has been earned through peer consideration in these forums. a.k.a. You need to learn a better way to deliver your message. Unless of course there are other issues and then we are the ones that need to be more tolerant.

What we really need in the left column - instead of the number of posts we have made - is a IQ score. I think Bill Engvall said it best - " heres' your sign ". Maybe Dave could rig up one of those on-line IQ test thingys and import the score right into each persons profile. Then we would know and wouldnt have to suffer through threads like this.

 

I agree, I just wanted some opinions on what to do next, I wasn't intending for it to lead to this.

 

Ok - Here is the dyno deal .

If you want to dyno a PVT clutched machine and gather any good information that is usable , do it at the crank.

The PVT will trick these new wheel dynos that calculate power by measuring how quickly they can speed up the drum . What I am saying is that you can change clutch parts in the clutch , rerun the quad and the numbers change .

The type of Dyno that Gunman is refering to actually loads the engine and the rpms are controled by adding more load to motor , basically pulling the engine down . A PVT will react by backshifting and changing it's leverage on the dyno . You can run a PVT quad on a dyno but the numbers you get are going to be hard to repeat . When using a dyno and trying to make subtle changes to get more power if you can't get repeatable results you are wasting your time on a dyno . I used to have a dyno like this , I would use it on shifter bikes all the time but on PVT's is pretty well worthless .

In summary , dyno PVT bikes at the crankshaft , period . You can control RPM's and get good acurrate information .

Further more -- Dynos get misused a lot , all they are good for is comparing tuning changes , measurements need taken over a wide range of RPM's , we are talking about small power changes like tenths of horsepower on these sizes of engines . I guess some folks get a kick out of seeing how much power their bikes put out , but thats not really what they are primarily used for .

CAUTION : If you must use a rear wheel dyno NEVER dyno a 4WD Polaris . If those front hubs kick in at 50mph you are going to trash some drive train parts and are get someone hurt or both . I have heard of this happening . Same thing happens to these quads when riding on frozen ponds .

LOL -- Peace my brothers --

Rick Ritter

 

Thanks Rick,
I want to sent you a flywheel to have race lightened, what is the price and what is your address to ship it to?

 

I charge $100 to race lighten a flywheel .

Click here for my new printable Shipping label :

www.rittercycle.com/rcr/envelope.html

 

Your next mod, after the flywheel should be Alcohol, Its a lot cheaper and cooler and faster, and makes more power. burns clean..............Its just fun burning Alcohol !

I have BUBBA's old Polaris, its a trip, it will spank you when you least expect it.

It goes up OLDSMOBILE HILL at Glamis so fricking quick, if you don't let off going up you will catch big air at the top, **** your pants, crash, swear you just saw God! All in one run. After the woop-tee-do's you can hold full throttle about half way up then back down to 1/2 to 2/3eds throttle to keep front end on the ground.

My neighbor has a FTZ 310cc 250R Honda with all the goodies, and was told it would beat the wimpy Polaris 400 any time. Well it won't, it doesn't, it can't.

Next mod ALCOHOL fuel.......................good luck!

handycap..........................going to GLAMIS next month!