Im doing a little survey. I want to know who's running a cpi pipe and what clutch setup you are running. The reason i ask is because im trying to build my stall up as high as possible. Im currently runing a blue spring with shaven s55 weights. I tryed the almond with s58's and she would only run about 7grand top end. There is a lip on the shaft of the primary clutch;where the spider sits. I had the lip milled down 80 thousanths and inserted a smaller shim. Im hoping this will give me another 500rpm stall.

all replies greatly appreciated

ross

 

you should contact duneaholic, i know for a fact he has a cpi pipe and has his bike ramped up for dunes riding! good luck.

 

yea i know duneaholic prety well. as far as the forums go anyway.

i believe duneaholic is more of a trail/dune riding.

im more into the drag racing so im sure his stall preferences and mine would be different.

thanks for the reply tho

ross

 

I ran the violet primary with 10-56 weights. The bike would engage at 5000-5200rpms. Dont forget that belt deflection and clutch center distance will affect stall. All of the basic adjustments must be done first and within specs before changing components.

 

hey bubba i tryed they violet with 10-56's and the motor reved out on top end.

ive cut the heels back on the s55's to match the 10 series weights.

all weights that have ben cut are accuret to a tenth of a gram.

like i stated earlier, i had the lip on the shart cut down 80tho. and i inserted a 20 tho shim, which was much thinner than the stockers.

daryl at hpd said he does this to all his quads.

how did you get your motor to stall at 5200 rpmz? that sounds almost to good to be true. my cousin has that violet spring with s 58s and only revs out at 4200.

i guess the s series weights and the 10 series weights are 2 completely different ball games.

if your not jamd up can you elaborate on belt deflection and clutch center distance 4 me. that would help alot im sure.

thanx 4 the replies

ross

 

OK, the 10 series weights will naturally have a little more stall due to the mass being in the center instead of on the end like the s series. The S series will hit harder right off the line, but they will not accelerate as fast through the mid-section of the upshift. The 10 series will stall up more and then as the clutch begins shifting (about 10-15 feet out) they will get aggressive with the upshift due to the relation of the weight mass and centrifugal force being applied. That's why they are the race weights. The s-series work real good for trail bikes and low HP bikes as most people will prefer the clutch to act like they do.
I am very concerned that you say that your RPMs revved out with the violet and 10-56 weights. That is one of the most preferred race clutch setups that I know of for the normal cylinder race porting. Many people run that combo and it works very well. Now that does make me think of another reason that could be causing this issue. It could be secondary settings and helix combination. A lighter bike will need a more aggressive helix angle than a heavier bike with the same HP. A lighter bike will accelerate quicker, and it will need a steeper helix angle to keep the motor loaded. If the helix angle is not enough it will slow down the secondary shifting and cause the RPMs to raise up on the top end.
A PVT clutch will only work the best when:
1) And most important is a good belt
2) the belt deflection is correct
3) the transmission and engine are aligned correctly (that would include center distance from clutch to clutch)
4) The clutches are in good operational shape and maintained
5) the clutching is set up correctly for the application
There is prbably more, but I cant think right now. You will run the fastest when the clutch holds the RPMs of the motor while upshifting and you can load the motor as hard as you can without the RPMs falling off. I fought these silly things till I had a box full of springs, weights, and helix's. I had to learn the hard way (and the expensive way). I dont see a reason why you should have issues unless you have some clutch problems or alignment problems.

 

Like bubba said on the violet with 10-56 weights. I like that as a trail set up too. You just have to get used to it. I also like the blue with the s55 as well. Just like bubba said I don't think the blue with the s55's "hit" as hard in midrange as the violet with 10-56's. Man this is such a experimentation kind of thing. I just like trail riding/dune riding like you said and don't have the patience for all the swapping out of parts. I just like to line up occasionally with the banshees and 450's at the dunes. If I can make their eyeballs pop out by beating them by a little or just staying right there with them I'm happy as heck.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Ross, how are you making out with the clutch?

 

I have the CPI and will be using a Comet clutch for the first time next weekend. Does anyone know if the springs can be changed out as well?

 

hey bubba,

thanks for all the vauable info you posted.

ive been so busy this week i couldnt get a chance to try my new clutch set up. i have the almond spring with 10-56's that im going to try. i should let you know by sunday.

one quick question being were on this topic. When I orginally bought my 400 i had a full trail mod kit installed (HPD).

the aggressive trail mod clutch kit contained a heliex for the trail mod set up. im still runing that original trail heliex, but im a full race mod now.

Is the trail mod heliex alot different from the race mod heliex????????

is it worth buying a race heliex??????????

once again guys thank you so much for your intrest. im going to stay in touch with this thread and let you know what my final outcome is.


all replies and/or advice is always greatly appreciated

ross