Well Ross I don't know if this will help you that much but I'm running the STOCK helix in my race mod. It seems to work fine. Upshifts good and backshifts good as well. I ran a 44-40 race helix and it made my bike run worse than with the stock helix. Your bike probably has the stones to pull it but mine didn't. I'd like to know as well how much more performance you get out of a "aggressive clutch kit" type helix over the stocker.

 

Ross, before you do much of anything put the stock helix back in it. Here's the reason......... the stocker has a straight 40 degree cut. It works well for a lot of applications. A trail mod helix has a 40-36 split. Most race mods use a 42-38, or a 42-40, or when only drag racing with a lot of motor,compression,etc. you could use a 44-40. The numbers are actually the degree of cut the helix has. Naturally the higher degree cut means that the helix will move quicker and vice versa (open faster when shifting). So with a 44-40 the helix will shift out very fast and maintain the stock degree at the top of the clutch shiftout and keep the motor loaded better. When the bottom number starts getting lower then about a 38 with the race mod then what happens is that the helix begins to slow down shifting and makes the load on the motor decrease. That's why they keep a 40-36 on the trail mod. The motor doesnt make as much power, therefore they cant keep as much load on it or the engine RPMs will fall off. Keep in mind that sometimes we are only talking about a couple of hundred RPMs, but that can make a big difference in performance. Once you know the target RPM of the motor then everything else has to follow those lines. You want the motor to hit that RPM when you nail the throttle and keep it until the clutch completely shifts out and you start raising the engine speed.

So.................. if you dont want to buy a race mod helix, then use your factory one. That will at least tell you if that's your biggest problem with the top RPMs. On the engagement, keep working with it. Once you get used to a high engagement you dont want to go back to anything else. Ask Shawn about that. The power is there available almost instantly when you want it.

Hope this helps with your helix. It's really hard to write it like I wanted to explain, but more top number is more shiftout speed, and a smaller bottom number means more RPM the engine will turn on the top end.

 

dear bubba,

ive been giving you false information.

the trial run when the motor over reved was with s53's. no dam wonder she over reved!!!!!!!

im going to do some major t & t dis 2moro if i kan ever find the time. ive got the 10 56's at which i cant wait to try, but as of now im drowning in homework. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] sure wish you could help me with that.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

ill keep in touch and give you ma final results

ross

 

Good post here, great info Bubba. made me go look at my helix again.
Hey Shawn, did you ever sell the 44-40 helix?
Ross... we have some s53's layin around? You hlodin out on me?
I rode his bike today, since he did the above mentioned mod to the spider, and tucked the weights. It may just be me, but it seems to really hit hard now.

 

welp boyz i tryd your clutch setup. wat a difference!!! pulls alot harder than b4!! suprised the hell outa me.

the stall reached about 4600 tops. daryl at hpd said he has a almon/red spring. said its a lettle stiffer than the almond. maybe il try that just for shtz and giggles.

but as for now im tickled pink. almond spring with 10-56's is diffinitly the way to go!!!!!!!!!

thanx again

ross

 

You go man!! Get that stall up higher if it doesnt affect top RPM or shiftout. I used an EPI marron one time that stalled almost 6K. Unfortunately I couldnt get enough weight to overcome it on the top and it overevved. Another helix probably could have done it, but I didnt want to spend the funds at the time. It was a rocket for about 200 feet. If you run 300 feet drags then set it up for that. As much engagement as you can and push the limits with it until you cross the line, then back off a hair. Until you know what's too much then you haven't reached your potential.

Dang, you guys make me want to build another Polaris drag bike!!!!!!!

 

DOIT!!!
Jus curious Bubba, what was it revin' with the maroon spring?

 

I was running the 10-58 weights with it and I think it was revving up to about 7800 with the CPI pipe. I really think it was a little more than that in reality. I dont think my tach was reading accurately above about 7400-7500.

 

ok guys heres an update,

I "knotched" my 10-56's and resulted in a stall of around 5300.

The round outside part of you flyweight is known as your shift curve. When the clutch spins the force opens up the flyweights, the shift curve hits the clutch, resulting in an engagment. The flyweight hits the clutch on the shift curve. In order to raise the stall you need to flatten the shift curve where the clutch and the flyweight meet. This allows for more rpms before the flyweights hit the clutch resulting in a higher stall (alot higher)

In order to do this take all three of the flyweights and alligned perfectly on the bolt used to hold the weight onto the clutch. Tighten so they do not move. It is very important to make sure that all three are ground down at the same spot and the same amount is ground off. Take a grinder and grind the shift curve flat where it hits the clutch. Have a triple beam balance and caliper avaible to make sure they all weigh and are shaped the same. Olav Aaen says grind down i beleve 60degrees (not sure), but I just ground the weight down till the shift curve (where the curve hits the clutch) is flat.


By completing this project stall will dramatically increase!!!!!!!!

I hope everyboby can understand what I just wrote. If you cant just let me know and il try to explain myself better.


With having more stall my hole shot is 110% better. The Power is ALWAYS there now!

thanks again

ross