Don't get too discouraged. Most quads go through tie rods ends. I have replaced mine. I'm not sure there are any manufacturers the put grease nipples on them so they do turn into a disposable item. As far as the clunking the proper idle adjustment is just below the point when you sense the bike pulling forward in first. The knock will not entirely go away but it is a characteristic of that style of clutch. No worries since the knock goes away once you’re moving 1 to 1 with the rpm of the engine. I have the noise too and it has run great for years.

Air in the case: To me it is a sign of a well sealed engine. My guess is that the air is expanding air cavity where the pull cord is as the engine heats up. Try letting it heat up with the cord slightly out and then seat it and run it some more. See if it still does it...

Automotive CV shaft grease will work fine. If you completely clean it out it requires 60 grams but if you only do the boot it is only 30. Not cheap to replace the hub so be sure there are no contaminants in it.

Oh yeah hub fluid is a fortune from Polaris but a bottle of ATF+3 Automotive transmission fluid is a match. I’ve used it for 5 years. Two weeks ago I inspected them and they look great. Torque on the hub nut is 108-144 inch lbs.

How did you do your alignment? I have the specs if you need them…

Want to hear of another happy Expedition owner…

Totun

 

Well thanks for all of the advice. Hopefully that knock is nothing. Also I changed the tie rods and I did kind of screw up my allignment my left tire is a little to far in. Is there a certein way to fix this or just trial and error. Thanks..

 

Sorry about another long winded reply but here goes…

Toe alignment:
Proper alignment on an Expedition is when the two front tires point outward slightly.

1.Loosen all fore tie rod nuts

2.Take two tie downs and lock them from the back rack to each side of the handlebars. This will hold the bars straight and square to the bike while you make your adjustments. Don’t worry if your wheels are straight only your bars.

3.Set up two parallel strings along the length of your bike at a height that is close to the centerline of the wheel diameter. Do not attach them to the bike, use stakes in the ground or bricks to hold them. They should stick out about a foot or more from either end of your bike.

4.String setup:
a. Strings should lightly touch the both side walls of the rear tire creating a line that runs parallel to your machine
b. Note the distance between the strings at the rear of the machine and set the strings at an equal distance apart at the front of your bike. Even up the difference by measuring from the string to the center hub of the front tires. This should create two parallel strings an equal distance apart with your bike nicely centered between them.

5.Now using the front rim as a reference the string crosses it at two points. One behind the hub Point “A” and one ahead of the hub Point “B” The Adjustment spec is point “A” should be 1/16 to 1/8 larger to the string than point “B”
6.Turn the rods (not the ends) to adjust accordingly. Your front tires should now be pointing out evenly. Tighten all four nuts and bingo your done.

Enjoy your machine

Totun