Strait-forward speed/mod question!
#1
11-26-2000, 05:45 PM
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,002
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As most of you all know I have a Scram400 and ride with a guy with a Shee. No need to say that I want it to go faster and faster...I have been tinkering with my quad over the past 6 months and have asked dozens upon dozens of performance questions. Here is the final(yea right) question for guys like 400L and all you others:
WHAT MODS ARE NEEDED, WITHOUT GOING TOO FAR, TO WHIP A BANSHEE???
I am getting the trail porting, billet head 12:1 and carb work. I ask this question only because I know that I am not alone with performance inquries and with all that is available today, it would be good to have some comparisons. Most start out with a stage1 kit or a pipe then go on later to porting and bigger carbs. With so many mods available it is hard for a "newcomer" to know where to start. I have found what seems to be the logical order but there will be many new riders coming to these forums and asking the same questions...
I thought it would be cool to have a kind of comparative description for each step in modifying a 400 motor in relation to the "competition" sport quads. Such as knowing at which point the 400l can compete with "x" quad and after which mods it can kill "x" quad...
Thanks,
Brian
WHAT MODS ARE NEEDED, WITHOUT GOING TOO FAR, TO WHIP A BANSHEE???
I am getting the trail porting, billet head 12:1 and carb work. I ask this question only because I know that I am not alone with performance inquries and with all that is available today, it would be good to have some comparisons. Most start out with a stage1 kit or a pipe then go on later to porting and bigger carbs. With so many mods available it is hard for a "newcomer" to know where to start. I have found what seems to be the logical order but there will be many new riders coming to these forums and asking the same questions...
I thought it would be cool to have a kind of comparative description for each step in modifying a 400 motor in relation to the "competition" sport quads. Such as knowing at which point the 400l can compete with "x" quad and after which mods it can kill "x" quad...
Thanks,
Brian
#2
11-26-2000, 06:21 PM
It would be hard for me to state how much performance was gained by each mod, since I've always made 2-3 changes at a time.
I started with a RCR I kit, including carb bore, V-force reeds and lightened flywheel. It definately woke it up, but not enough to be truly competitive.
Took it back to RCR about 6 months later for a mild port job, Wiseco, RCR HI-rev pipe and a 38TMX (removed oil injector and fan). I also added the roller while it was apart and made some clutch and a gearring changes. Now we were getting somewhere. Out of the hole it was quick and I gained some top end. Up to about 100-150 yards I could keep up with a piped Shee. Anything more would still get me on top, but at this point I had one hell of a trail machine that could keep up with anything. Having the auto and a smoother powerband I would say that this is a good point to strive for if doing mostly trail riding. From here it wouldn't take much more than some fine tuning and clutch tuning to have a fast machine.
About six months later I replaced the piston and decided to have the porting re-worked since I had the jug off. Ritter found a happy medium between HPD trail and race. I added the billet head (14:1 dome) and the 39PWK. Through the whole process I added new tires, made some changes to save a few pounds. I switched to HPD's trail pipe here, due to the "prettier" finninsh. If anything here I gained top end performance. I'd like to have a pipet hat revved higher, but there isn't anything available right now.
My advice would to skip the carb bore and get a 39PWK. With the HPD trail port/pipe and the right clutch kit you should be able to make your friend start second guesing his Banshee. In an all out drag you probably won't beat him, but you'll be close enough behind him to freak him out.
I started with a RCR I kit, including carb bore, V-force reeds and lightened flywheel. It definately woke it up, but not enough to be truly competitive.
Took it back to RCR about 6 months later for a mild port job, Wiseco, RCR HI-rev pipe and a 38TMX (removed oil injector and fan). I also added the roller while it was apart and made some clutch and a gearring changes. Now we were getting somewhere. Out of the hole it was quick and I gained some top end. Up to about 100-150 yards I could keep up with a piped Shee. Anything more would still get me on top, but at this point I had one hell of a trail machine that could keep up with anything. Having the auto and a smoother powerband I would say that this is a good point to strive for if doing mostly trail riding. From here it wouldn't take much more than some fine tuning and clutch tuning to have a fast machine.
About six months later I replaced the piston and decided to have the porting re-worked since I had the jug off. Ritter found a happy medium between HPD trail and race. I added the billet head (14:1 dome) and the 39PWK. Through the whole process I added new tires, made some changes to save a few pounds. I switched to HPD's trail pipe here, due to the "prettier" finninsh. If anything here I gained top end performance. I'd like to have a pipet hat revved higher, but there isn't anything available right now.
My advice would to skip the carb bore and get a 39PWK. With the HPD trail port/pipe and the right clutch kit you should be able to make your friend start second guesing his Banshee. In an all out drag you probably won't beat him, but you'll be close enough behind him to freak him out.
#7
11-27-2000, 06:41 PM
Do what Goodman says!
Go w/ the 12:1 or "head work" (if you wanna save some $$$) Do the trail porting and go w/ the 39pwk.
I'm gonna egg you on and say do this by yourself. Its easy. I ""had"" no mechanical experience other than General maintenence and I just dropped in a wiseco, trail porting, and a shaved head. (Thanks to Dennis Shotwell and Eric Bellinger!) Its pretty darn fast and w/ your roller, it will deliver the goods very smoothly.
If your buddies banshee is stock, He'll hate you. If its piped, he's still yours until he hits that last gear!!!!
Good luck.
EC
Go w/ the 12:1 or "head work" (if you wanna save some $$$) Do the trail porting and go w/ the 39pwk.
I'm gonna egg you on and say do this by yourself. Its easy. I ""had"" no mechanical experience other than General maintenence and I just dropped in a wiseco, trail porting, and a shaved head. (Thanks to Dennis Shotwell and Eric Bellinger!) Its pretty darn fast and w/ your roller, it will deliver the goods very smoothly.
If your buddies banshee is stock, He'll hate you. If its piped, he's still yours until he hits that last gear!!!!
Good luck.
EC
Trending Topics
#10
11-29-2000, 01:34 PM
I drag raced my friends Banshee last month twice on dry dirt roads, no gravel & we were exactly tied all the way to 6th gear then he pulled away like I was standing still. But thats too fast for my old bones anyway, not that I have a coice or anything. Anyway he has the Banshee head shaved, new rebuild & open airbox. Mine had the 12:1 head, reeds, 39 carb, pipe/clutch. I also raced another friends DS which I was suprised was allot slower than my other friends Banshee. I beat the DS pretty badly, twice although there wasn't enough room for him to wind out 5th. My friend is using my quad as a bench mark since he is adding more mods to his Banshee & wants to gage his improvements since I told him I'm done w/ my mods so my ride is a constant. He also bought a radar for his evaluation so he's going to trap my speeds w/ his in the process. I know he'll start to pass me in lower & lower gears as he adds mods but thats ok since I ride throughout the Pa winters & muddy/ icy spring thaws while his sits.
Jim Maloney 98 400 Scrambler
http://photos.yahoo.com/jim400scram
Jim Maloney 98 400 Scrambler
http://photos.yahoo.com/jim400scram