Progressive Spring Install
#1
#2
Progressive Spring Install
I put EPI HD springs on mine recently, it may be easier to remove the plastic but i didnt.
also Looks to me like the easiest way to install them is to remove the strut nuts, remove the outer cv joint nut, so that teh CV dont seperate as i had this problem.
May not need to use a strut spring compressor. but you'll need the plastic off and and a impact wrench for the strut nuts on top.
see below for an 'o5 but very similar....
Front Spring install- 2005 up
1) Loosen lug nuts on front wheels
2) Jack machine up on ATV lift
3) Remove front wheels/tires
4) Open front storage area, remove 4 large bolts mounting unit down from the inside, two on each side.
5) If you look towards the rear (towards pod) of the front storage rack, there is two torx head bolts that also mount the storage unit down, the are down in a piece of the molded storage unit, look closely, you will see them from the top, near the rear side of the storage unit, down in part of the storage area molded area.
6) Under each side of the fender in the front, there is two more torx head screws that are screwed up from the bottom, you will see them right above the tire, towards the outside of the fender. Remove the two screws from each side.
7) Close and lock the storage compartment.
8) Grab the racks and lift the storage compartment straight up, the whole unit should come right up. Place aside.
9) Place a jack under the brake rotor. The reason is that when you remove the nut from the top of the strut in the following steps, the whole strut and A-arm will drop down, you don't want it to just fling free as you can actually over extend it and pull apart the outside CV joint.
10) Loosen and remove the nut on the top of the strut. You will need two wrenches for this, one to hold the top and the other to loosen the nut.
11) Using Strut spring compressors, start on one side of the machine and put a strut spring compressor on each side of spring and compress the spring enough so that you can get the next nut loose.
12) Once you have the spring compressed enough, carefully lower the jack that is holding the rotor and A-arm and spring/strut up. You want to lower it enough that you can pull the strut and spring towards you and get it out from the upper strut frame mount.
Note: A hint here, you can pivot the strut/spring away as stated in step 12 before step 12. If you do it right after you remove the first/upper nut, it will be much easier to get the spring compressors on the spring and crank them down.
13) Remove the plastic cap that is on top of the strut. Remove the next nut. Make sure the spring is well compressed so that this nut will come off easily. Like I said in my original thread, I have a air compressor and impact wrench, so it was easy for me.
14) Once the nut is off, remove the metal protector top.
15) Remove the spring from the strut. It make take a little tweaking to get off the strut. Keep the compressors attached to the spring, this is what usually gets caught on the top part of the strut, use a screwdriver to pry it around any part it hangs up on.
16) Once you have the spring off, loosen each spring compressor tool, alternating from one side to the other to remove evenly. Careful here, the spring is under pressure, don't want any slips.
17) There is a rubber bushing in the spring you just removed, it will be at the top. You will need to install this in the new spring. Take a little dishwashing soap and water and push it up so that the upper first coil of the spring is sitting in the groove on the rubber bushing.
18) Slide new spring over strut.
19) Install strut spring compressors on each side and compress the spring. You will be guiding the strut shaft up through the rubber bushing, make sure it doesn't bind in the bushing, otherwise it will push the strut rod down and you will be compressing too far and have to reach in with a pliers to push the strut rod up through the bushing. Compress the springs enough to get the strut rod up through the bushing and almost all of the threads showing.
20) install metal cap that you removed, install nut and tighten. Make sure it is tightened down as far as it will go. It is important that all the threads are showing to get the nut all the way down.
21) Put the plastic cap on that you removed.
22) Push strut forward back under upper strut frame mount.
23) Jack up jack under rotor and push the strut up through the upper frame mount, reinstall the hardware that was removed from the upper frame strut mount.
24) Remove jack from under the rotor.
25) Remove strut spring compressors.
26) Reinstall tire/wheel.
27) Go to other side of the machine and do that side as outlined above.
28) Lower machine when other side is down, tires/wheels are mounted.
29) Reinstall storage rack.
Thanks to Dave (Elkbow)
also Looks to me like the easiest way to install them is to remove the strut nuts, remove the outer cv joint nut, so that teh CV dont seperate as i had this problem.
May not need to use a strut spring compressor. but you'll need the plastic off and and a impact wrench for the strut nuts on top.
see below for an 'o5 but very similar....
Front Spring install- 2005 up
1) Loosen lug nuts on front wheels
2) Jack machine up on ATV lift
3) Remove front wheels/tires
4) Open front storage area, remove 4 large bolts mounting unit down from the inside, two on each side.
5) If you look towards the rear (towards pod) of the front storage rack, there is two torx head bolts that also mount the storage unit down, the are down in a piece of the molded storage unit, look closely, you will see them from the top, near the rear side of the storage unit, down in part of the storage area molded area.
6) Under each side of the fender in the front, there is two more torx head screws that are screwed up from the bottom, you will see them right above the tire, towards the outside of the fender. Remove the two screws from each side.
7) Close and lock the storage compartment.
8) Grab the racks and lift the storage compartment straight up, the whole unit should come right up. Place aside.
9) Place a jack under the brake rotor. The reason is that when you remove the nut from the top of the strut in the following steps, the whole strut and A-arm will drop down, you don't want it to just fling free as you can actually over extend it and pull apart the outside CV joint.
10) Loosen and remove the nut on the top of the strut. You will need two wrenches for this, one to hold the top and the other to loosen the nut.
11) Using Strut spring compressors, start on one side of the machine and put a strut spring compressor on each side of spring and compress the spring enough so that you can get the next nut loose.
12) Once you have the spring compressed enough, carefully lower the jack that is holding the rotor and A-arm and spring/strut up. You want to lower it enough that you can pull the strut and spring towards you and get it out from the upper strut frame mount.
Note: A hint here, you can pivot the strut/spring away as stated in step 12 before step 12. If you do it right after you remove the first/upper nut, it will be much easier to get the spring compressors on the spring and crank them down.
13) Remove the plastic cap that is on top of the strut. Remove the next nut. Make sure the spring is well compressed so that this nut will come off easily. Like I said in my original thread, I have a air compressor and impact wrench, so it was easy for me.
14) Once the nut is off, remove the metal protector top.
15) Remove the spring from the strut. It make take a little tweaking to get off the strut. Keep the compressors attached to the spring, this is what usually gets caught on the top part of the strut, use a screwdriver to pry it around any part it hangs up on.
16) Once you have the spring off, loosen each spring compressor tool, alternating from one side to the other to remove evenly. Careful here, the spring is under pressure, don't want any slips.
17) There is a rubber bushing in the spring you just removed, it will be at the top. You will need to install this in the new spring. Take a little dishwashing soap and water and push it up so that the upper first coil of the spring is sitting in the groove on the rubber bushing.
18) Slide new spring over strut.
19) Install strut spring compressors on each side and compress the spring. You will be guiding the strut shaft up through the rubber bushing, make sure it doesn't bind in the bushing, otherwise it will push the strut rod down and you will be compressing too far and have to reach in with a pliers to push the strut rod up through the bushing. Compress the springs enough to get the strut rod up through the bushing and almost all of the threads showing.
20) install metal cap that you removed, install nut and tighten. Make sure it is tightened down as far as it will go. It is important that all the threads are showing to get the nut all the way down.
21) Put the plastic cap on that you removed.
22) Push strut forward back under upper strut frame mount.
23) Jack up jack under rotor and push the strut up through the upper frame mount, reinstall the hardware that was removed from the upper frame strut mount.
24) Remove jack from under the rotor.
25) Remove strut spring compressors.
26) Reinstall tire/wheel.
27) Go to other side of the machine and do that side as outlined above.
28) Lower machine when other side is down, tires/wheels are mounted.
29) Reinstall storage rack.
Thanks to Dave (Elkbow)
#3
Progressive Spring Install
Hey.
thanks for the help with the install... Got the springs installed. I was paranoid about the CV pulling apart, but with a spring compressor it wasnt that bad. Feels a million times better with the new springs.
I think i'm gonna tighten up rear springs. Anyone know if the same spanner wrench will work?
Ben
thanks for the help with the install... Got the springs installed. I was paranoid about the CV pulling apart, but with a spring compressor it wasnt that bad. Feels a million times better with the new springs.
I think i'm gonna tighten up rear springs. Anyone know if the same spanner wrench will work?
Ben
#6
Progressive Spring Install
Hey,
I purchased the Progressive preloaded front suspension springs. They have the adjustable collar on the bottom to adjust the amount of preload. Stoped the bottoming out, as well as front dipping so much when I hit the brakes. I tested it out a bit more this weekend and I am VERY IMPRESSED with these springs. They were work every bit of the $150 plus the time to install them.
Ben
I purchased the Progressive preloaded front suspension springs. They have the adjustable collar on the bottom to adjust the amount of preload. Stoped the bottoming out, as well as front dipping so much when I hit the brakes. I tested it out a bit more this weekend and I am VERY IMPRESSED with these springs. They were work every bit of the $150 plus the time to install them.
Ben
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jrooker6
Polaris
18
04-23-2016 07:36 PM
atv, coil, epi, front, hd, installation, polaris, proggressive, progressive, sportsman, spring, springs, strut, susp, suspension
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