What Conig said is true that Wiseco is preferred over WSM, but I would not go change out a new piston just for another brand. I bought my 95 Sport 400 2 years ago with a fresh WSM piston, and it is still running great. On a stock machine, I think WSM is a good piston. I would prefer Wiseco, but with my experience, I would trust a WSM piston on a piped 400. Any more mods, I would suggest Wiseco.

Also, the HPD trail pipe makes excellent power. I would give Rick Ritter a Call at Ritter Cycle Racing and talk to him about his Stage 1 kit as mentioned above. It really is the best bang for the buck, and he'll even sell the kit with an HPD trail pipe. He sells his own stuff along with HPD stuff.

Ritter Cycle Racing
(618)644-3211 Rick always answers the phone

 

let me start off with conig and ftwflh you guy's rock!!! Thanks abunch for the input, i'll be up tonight lookin up all that good stuff..........i'll keep ya updated on the choice that i'll make and would kindly like to hear ur input on that guys....you rock!!!!!!!!

 

hey guys back again...while searching for some new parts it dawned on me that after going .50 perhaps im running to lean and thats causing my knock. I know this can happen in the automotive world beacuse I use to have a 383 stroker in a 4X4 truck of mine that knocked alittle because the carb was running the engine to lean..easy fix swaped it out for a lager cfm carb rated for the motor. So it is in my mind that pherhaps a jet kit might be need or better yet have you heard of the oil pumps goin bad on the scrammy's? I think this weekend I will try some pre-mix in it and see if the knock goes away then I'll know for sure it's internal or oil pump related. Maybe Im just beatin myself up to much on this.....Im a huge gear head and I like things to be perfect...at least thats what i strive for..........thanx again guys

 

If you are wondering about a lean condition do a couple plug checks.One after normal riding then do another by running in the rpm where it knocks a little then kill it with the kill switch and check the plug again.
On the oil pump it very seldom goes bad.Most of the guys that do away with the system do it for high performance and weight loss.If you pre mix it may run a little richer too.

 

Wow 1 thing at a time. You're going to explode thinking so hard.
If the clutch is making the noise, make sure you rebuild the clutch not just spring and weights.
EPI sells a kit for about 125.00
When you started thinking about pistons. .020 = .5mm. Make sure you identfy the size properly.
Personally, run the WSM til she blows. Might not.
If you are going to modify, give RCR a call it's really worth the time.
Read the plug for checking the lean condition.
The guys in here will help whenever possible, just slow down and give us one thing to fix at a time. Doc

 

yeah I agree that my head is going to explod......i got the bug u get when you start to find all the goodies for your machine....the plug i will check for a quick insight on the lean condition....and yeah I slow my mind down before it goes too...lol....but thanx everyone for the tips and mod advice. I'll get one thing done at a time, oh and drlang ur corect it's a .020 oversize...i got way ahead of myself, this site makes my fingers tap like crazy on the keyboard!! Oh and back to the knocking it does it at idle and up to about 1/4 throttle after that you can't hear it over the exhaust, as far as riding it acts good..still pulls good except if you try to launch it or take off fairly quick. Thats why I started asking about the cluth issues..............
Man after all this typin im gonna have carpal tunel....ohh no that means no ridin!!!..LOL...thanx again guys

 

puppyhottie shoot me your email in a PM when you get a chance. I have some more info for you.

 

well tore into the quad today and found that the belt was toast.....clutch looks and feels wore out and the icing on the cake is that after feeling around and turning the engine over by hand it feels like the crank bearings might be the knocking sound...wont know for sure untill the clutch pulling tool arives to get it off...if anyone knows a easyier way to remove the forward clutch please let me know....those pullers and like 40 bucks shiped to ur door...lol.....and I dont want to try and play heman and pry/pull it off.......man im so used to changing out a clutch basket and packs, but this looks like a good design though for an automatic quad and from the ential design the srammy's are still basicly unchanged!!!

 

get some 3/4 inch fine thread all thread or a large bolt if you can find it, take it over to the trailer ball section a 3 quarter inch fine thread trailor ball uses the same thread to check it. grind down the first two inches to remove the thread, insert it in the clutch and screw down until it stops. then jam too nuts together and use an impact wrench to remove it. some noise is normal when turning the motor by hand, just after the comression cycle.

 

good call on the tool....i'll try that...and the knock is aparent at and before top dead center...I can feel alittle side play and to me it seems a tad lose for a bottom end? Maybe it is just me but I will get that clutch off and go from there.....thanx again man!