My Scrammy has a noticable knocking sound coming from the engine/tranny area. I have heard in the past that the front clutch on these will knock when worn out or when failing.....im curious if this is true because I have just put a new topend in it with new wrist pin and crank bearing.....so any input would be appreciated!

 

Best thing to do is pull the clutch off and run it and if the knock is gone the clutch is your trouble.

 

yeah i was thinking the same thing....earlier i said that i changed the crank bearing i meant wrist pin roller bearing so im figurin that if it's not the forward clutch than it's proly my crank bearings. Im also curious on who makes a good aftermarket clutch set-up for these.....this being my first polaris not to familiar with the aftermarket world. Thanx for the input..much appriciated ftwflh!!!!!!

 

On the after market clutching you need to wait until you put a pipe on and get the recomended clutch kit for the pipe because a 2stroke has to have the rpms matched to the rpm range of the pipe.

 

I know you don't want to here this but you best investment at this point is to change the piston out to a wiseco, everyone thats used a wsm has had it fail on them.

 

Man...after hearing that perhaps I should have went with the Weisco set-up. I heard pretty good things about the WSM stuff but then again everyone has their own licking. I have ran weisco in the past and had good luck but the polaris shop near me said for just trail riding the WSM would be fine......this is probably what I get for listening to the dealer. Oh and thanx ftwflh for the clutch and pipe info, this being my fist polaris/automatic quad I didn't know that. Oh and conig, u think it is the piston that is causin the sound? If thats the case then after 2 hours of riding/break-in the piston has already started to fail!!!! But Thanx guys for the input it's much appriciated!!!!!!!!!!

 

i don;t neccasarily thing its the piston, it could be alot of things these motors make weird noises ime.

just trying to save you some money ahead of time, I didn't listen and then after my skirt cracked off and got chewed up in the bottom end, i spent litteraly three times as much after having to get a rebuild crank, all bottom end bearings and seals etc.

the guy that did my boring kept insisting on wsm as well because its what he ran in his banshee's. he had no clue about the rod angle of these machines.

 

well I spent most of last night lookin up a good pipe and clutch set up...im thinking the FMF 'Gnarly' pipe with turbine 2 silencer for exhaust with the EPI Sport clutch set-up...or a package deal from Aaen perfomance with their pipe,silencer,flat side carb,and new reed cage..with EPI clutch. But for the knock im waintin on some free time to check the clutch or see if it's internal in the engine. Oh and conig Im having a hard time finding a .50 weisco piston....u can find the .20 and .40 over all day long but the .50 a bit harder..........hopefuly it;s the clutch, thats an easy fix!

 

i would not get the gnarly, what pipe you plan to get has alot to do with your plans latter on trail or race mod.

the problem with the gnarly is while its a well designed and attractive pipe no one knows how to clutch the thing becuase no one has a dyno graph for it. fmf says they dynotest there stuff and I beleive them, but there customer service told me they could not proovide one and I called several times. either give me your name and we will call you back(which never happened) or they quoted the same description thats in all the aftermarket catalogues.

id go hpd and there clutch kit( do a search for rick ritter great guy) or there springs or check out dyno port like your ktm its designed for stock rpm ranges so no clutch changes are neccasary.

its very important the clutch kit match the pipe or the user tune it in too. on your bike you can just rev it hire but on a belt drive once you hit shift out thats it. from the rumors ive heard on the fmf it peaks at 6500 so in stock clutch form or with an epi, you will be roughly 5-600rpm from the pipes peak power figure.

 

On the pipe I personally like the Dynoport with just a clutch spring change for trail riding but if go fast is your thing go with the Aaen topend pipe,clutch kit and their stuff.But if best bang for your $$$$$ is the thing give Rick Ritter a call about his Stage1 kit (very reasonable and you get everything you need)