Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

Did I make a good choice?

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  #11  
Old 12-15-2006, 09:08 AM
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Default Did I make a good choice?

OK OK.......If you're certain it won't hinder reliability or warranty maybe I should give it a try. Can anyone guide me though it? I'd appreciate but my wife I'm sure would appreciate it even more. Thanks again!
 
  #12  
Old 12-15-2006, 08:42 PM
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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Default Did I make a good choice?

When you get the spring get with us and we will walk you through it.
 
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:49 AM
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Default Did I make a good choice?

ok lets do it. where do I get the spring or is it part of a clutch kit as previously mentioned?
 
  #14  
Old 12-18-2006, 10:47 AM
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Default Did I make a good choice?

Pick up a White primary polaris spring from your dealer. The dealer will likely have it in stock. You will need 3/8, 7/16 & 1/2" sockets, 6" extension, rachet, phillips screw driver, and a fairly good set of external snap ring pliers. When you actually take the secondary apart you will need someone with you that has fairly strong fingers or knows how to use the pliers.

I'll write instruction tonight and post them here.
 
  #15  
Old 12-18-2006, 01:49 PM
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Default Did I make a good choice?

thanks so much gary. I'll be at the dealer this weekend so I'll pick it up. Step by step instructions would be awesome as I'm fairly new at this. Thanks again! Oh yeah, how much should I expect to pay for the spring and is that all I need from the dealer?
 
  #16  
Old 12-18-2006, 02:05 PM
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Default Did I make a good choice?

Hoping to get some clarification.........My manual and dealer said any modification that changes performance will void warranty because the quad will not operated as it was designed. Anybody have other information to back up that it will not void warranty?
THANKS
 
  #17  
Old 12-18-2006, 06:15 PM
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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Default Did I make a good choice?

When you ask for a spring tell them you need a primary spring for a 2001 400 Scrambler.
 
  #18  
Old 12-19-2006, 01:05 AM
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Default Did I make a good choice?

I paid $20.00 Canadain for a white spring. The spring is all you will likely need; the belt case cover gasket should be OK on a new machine and I have never found belt deflection too tight on a new Polaris so you likely do not need any shims. A service manual is always a good idea.

These instructions are based on memory so if I miss something I am sure someone will chime in.

Prep.
-remove 3 screws on left floor board where rear fender attaches
-loosen hose clamps on outlet duct
-remove bolts that hold the belt cover on
-remove belt cover. Watch the gasket does not fall out and get pinch. Cover will come past the loose rear fender.
-Measure the belt deflection at the top of the belt in between the two clutches by placing a straight edge along the belt from primary to secondary clutch. Push the belt down. Proper deflection is 1-1/8" to 1-1/4". If deflection is incorrect then note if it too much or too little.
-remove the belt

Primary Clutch

- Mark the outside cover and spider so that the cover goes back on in the same position (I rotate the clutch until the "X" is at the top and then make sure the engine does not rotate until I am done)
-Remove the center bolt and washer
-evenly remove the 6 bolts from the outside cover of the primary. Spring pressure will release as the bolts are loosened.
-remove primary cover.
-replace the blue/green spring with the new white spring.
-reassemble primary in reverse order making sure the primary cover goes on the same place it was removed. Torque the 6 bolts to 90 in.lbs. Torque center bolt to 200 ft.lbs.

Secondary Clutch
-Recruit a friend
-Install safety glasses onto faces
-Remove center bolt
-remove secondary clutch from transmission input shaft, being careful the spacers behind the clutch remain in place. The clutch will slide off the splines and will make it past the loose fender.
-Place the secondary on a bench or area where two people can work. The helix side (side with the snap ring visible) needs to be up.
-Looking down at the clutch, the top sheeve half will rotate counterclockwise in relation the the bottom one. Rotate the sheave a little bit and have a friend grasp both sheave halves with both hands and hold tight enough the sheave halves do not rotate back together. The sheave halve are being squeezed together if they are being held correctly.
-Remove the snap ring at the top of the helix with a good pair of snap ring pliers.
-the friend slow releases the grasp on the sheave halves. The sheaves will rotate against each and will move apart from each other.
-Once the spring tension is gone, remove the helix and spring
-If the belt deflection was correct before you took the belt off, ignore the next step
-Separate the two sheave halves. If the belt delflect was too little add a shim to the lower sheave. If the deflection was too much then remove a shim. Make sure there is at least one shim installed. Set the two sheave halves back together.
-reinstall the spring with the end set in hole #2 on the sheeve.
-lightly reinstall the helix with the spring end set in hole #2 on the helix. There is boss spline.
-Hold the helix steady while the friend winds the top sheave counterclockwise about 1/3 of a turn (120 degrees). After the sheave half is rotated 1/8 of a turn the helix can be pushed down. When the helix bottoms out the sheave halves have been rotated enough.
-Reinstall the snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is properly seated before letting go of the sheave halves
-reinstall the secondary onto the transmission input shaft.
-reinstall the belt and check the belt deflection. If the deflection is incorrect the secondary must taken apart and shims added or removed as required. Remember to leave at least one shim installed.
-Reinstall the belt cover, duct hose clamps and fender bolts.
-test drive. Expect the engagement rpm to be slightly higher. The upshift will be slower. the backshift will be faster. Throttle response will be improved in all areas.

My girlfriend was able to make these adjustments to her 07 Scammbler in just under one hour, with me offering advise and being the friend holding the secondary.

The words will likely make more sense as you are doing the work.
 
  #19  
Old 12-19-2006, 02:30 AM
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Default Did I make a good choice?

you made a super choice in bikes, these bikes are a ton of fun. as you will learn shortly. clutching becomes a fun way to make the bike respond to what type of riding style one has.
so many of us have done tons of mods and plenty of tinkering to be able to lend a helping hand.

Disclaimer: "once you start modding thse machines you will prolly never stop!" [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

enjoy your new ride and let us know how we can help!

tom

 
  #20  
Old 12-19-2006, 07:58 AM
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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Default Did I make a good choice?

Originally posted by: GarryESE
I paid $20.00 Canadain for a white spring. The spring is all you will likely need; the belt case cover gasket should be OK on a new machine and I have never found belt deflection too tight on a new Polaris so you likely do not need any shims. A service manual is always a good idea.

These instructions are based on memory so if I miss something I am sure someone will chime in.

Prep.
-remove 3 screws on left floor board where rear fender attaches
-loosen hose clamps on outlet duct
-remove bolts that hold the belt cover on
-remove belt cover. Watch the gasket does not fall out and get pinch. Cover will come past the loose rear fender.
-Measure the belt deflection at the top of the belt in between the two clutches by placing a straight edge along the belt from primary to secondary clutch. Push the belt down. Proper deflection is 1-1/8" to 1-1/4". If deflection is incorrect then note if it too much or too little.
-remove the belt

Primary Clutch

- Mark the outside cover and spider so that the cover goes back on in the same position (I rotate the clutch until the "X" is at the top and then make sure the engine does not rotate until I am done)
-Remove the center bolt and washer
-evenly remove the 6 bolts from the outside cover of the primary. Spring pressure will release as the bolts are loosened.
-remove primary cover.
-replace the blue/green spring with the new white spring.
-reassemble primary in reverse order making sure the primary cover goes on the same place it was removed. Torque the 6 bolts to 90 in.lbs. Torque center bolt to 200 ft.lbs.

Secondary Clutch
-Recruit a friend
-Install safety glasses onto faces
-Remove center bolt
-remove secondary clutch from transmission input shaft, being careful the spacers behind the clutch remain in place. The clutch will slide off the splines and will make it past the loose fender.
-Place the secondary on a bench or area where two people can work. The helix side (side with the snap ring visible) needs to be up.
-Looking down at the clutch, the top sheeve half will rotate counterclockwise in relation the the bottom one. Rotate the sheave a little bit and have a friend grasp both sheave halves with both hands and hold tight enough the sheave halves do not rotate back together. The sheave halve are being squeezed together if they are being held correctly.
-Remove the snap ring at the top of the helix with a good pair of snap ring pliers.
-the friend slow releases the grasp on the sheave halves. The sheaves will rotate against each and will move apart from each other.
-Once the spring tension is gone, remove the helix and spring
-If the belt deflection was correct before you took the belt off, ignore the next step
-Separate the two sheave halves. If the belt delflect was too little add a shim to the lower sheave. If the deflection was too much then remove a shim. Make sure there is at least one shim installed. Set the two sheave halves back together.
-reinstall the spring with the end set in hole #2 on the sheeve.
-lightly reinstall the helix with the spring end set in hole #2 on the helix. There is boss spline.
-Hold the helix steady while the friend winds the top sheave counterclockwise about 1/3 of a turn (120 degrees). After the sheave half is rotated 1/8 of a turn the helix can be pushed down. When the helix bottoms out the sheave halves have been rotated enough.
-Reinstall the snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is properly seated before letting go of the sheave halves
-reinstall the secondary onto the transmission input shaft.
-reinstall the belt and check the belt deflection. If the deflection is incorrect the secondary must taken apart and shims added or removed as required. Remember to leave at least one shim installed.
-Reinstall the belt cover, duct hose clamps and fender bolts.
-test drive. Expect the engagement rpm to be slightly higher. The upshift will be slower. the backshift will be faster. Throttle response will be improved in all areas.

My girlfriend was able to make these adjustments to her 07 Scammbler in just under one hour, with me offering advise and being the friend holding the secondary.

The words will likely make more sense as you are doing the work.


Good direction but you dont torque the primary bolt to 200 ft lbs only 40 ft lbs.
 


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