Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
#12
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
Exactly. A one inch wider offset (per wheel) will give the taller machine a two inch wider center-line track (than stock) which will make it more stable and will keep the inner front sidewalls away from the outer tie rod end boots, although an 8" front tire would probably clear on stock wheels. We don?t see the kind of stress related damage on machines with the aftermarket wheel offset as we do on machines with wheel spacers.
#13
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
ok floodrunner i think i got it itp type 7 4+3 or 3+4 ? one in lift just bought a two didnt see a one in? no wheel spacers and do you think the front tires wiill still stick out to far,not that i mind mud all over thats kind of the fun of it, but when its hitting u in the faace all day i get kind of tired of it,
#14
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
You want 4+3 rims. That is what I have and they work great. Look into this as well, if your quad had steel rims from the factory, as most do, you need to get different studs. The studs are not long enough for the added thickness of the aluminum rim. You will be able to get 4-5 threads on. Definately not enough. Get studs that come on a quad with aluminum factory rims, they are longer.
Now, back to the topic. I rode yesterday, at stock height. The inboards CV's fell out several times throughout the day. The first one, I could still see my truck, through the winter like trees, because of no leaves. I had .1 miles on the trip meter. This is after last weekend of 35 miles, of slow rock crawling. I had no problems last weekend, after I took the lift out. The left fell out first and only once, then the right fell out like 5-6 times. The third time it ripped the inner boot. Then, after a crappy 18(very easy trails) mile day of fixing my axles about every couple miles, the right rear outter CV breaks, 1/2 mile from the truck. This is sort of a good thing. Now Gorilla has to repair the axle under its warranty, which means the inner boot will be fixed also. I was planning on eating that boot repair. Now they will.
Now that I am back to stock height, I assumed to have no more heat issues with CV's. Well, I was wrong. Last weekend, I quit checking after the first couple of miles after removing the lift. It could have heated up again, without me knowing it. This time they were extremely hot again. When I say extremely hot, they had steam come from them, after I pulled out of a water hole. Plus, they could not be touched with your bare hands for more than 2-3 secs. I was amazed. Gorilla told me to heat cycle them. I did, whenever I passed a deep water hole. I wished I checked the outer CV temp. I wonder if it too was running very hot. This may have contributed to the outer one breaking. I am done with Gorilla's in the rear. I am going back the stock rears. The front Gorilla CV's were always COLD. I will keep them in.
Sportsman70003 has Gorilla's, but hasn't chimed in. Apperantly no problems with his. Lucky Dog[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Now, back to the topic. I rode yesterday, at stock height. The inboards CV's fell out several times throughout the day. The first one, I could still see my truck, through the winter like trees, because of no leaves. I had .1 miles on the trip meter. This is after last weekend of 35 miles, of slow rock crawling. I had no problems last weekend, after I took the lift out. The left fell out first and only once, then the right fell out like 5-6 times. The third time it ripped the inner boot. Then, after a crappy 18(very easy trails) mile day of fixing my axles about every couple miles, the right rear outter CV breaks, 1/2 mile from the truck. This is sort of a good thing. Now Gorilla has to repair the axle under its warranty, which means the inner boot will be fixed also. I was planning on eating that boot repair. Now they will.
Now that I am back to stock height, I assumed to have no more heat issues with CV's. Well, I was wrong. Last weekend, I quit checking after the first couple of miles after removing the lift. It could have heated up again, without me knowing it. This time they were extremely hot again. When I say extremely hot, they had steam come from them, after I pulled out of a water hole. Plus, they could not be touched with your bare hands for more than 2-3 secs. I was amazed. Gorilla told me to heat cycle them. I did, whenever I passed a deep water hole. I wished I checked the outer CV temp. I wonder if it too was running very hot. This may have contributed to the outer one breaking. I am done with Gorilla's in the rear. I am going back the stock rears. The front Gorilla CV's were always COLD. I will keep them in.
Sportsman70003 has Gorilla's, but hasn't chimed in. Apperantly no problems with his. Lucky Dog[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#16
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
Instigater-sorry if I have missed something, but why are the axles falling out, especailly after lift removed?
Floodrunner/Istigater-can you get steel wheels with the necessary offset to run 9" or 10" wide fronts? I have the black steel wheels as I think you both have/had, don't really want to run alum. because my steel gets abused enough. Want to get 27's sooner or later. Aren't the rear stock wheels offset different from the fronts? Would they work in front?
Sorry for all the ?'s, just trying to learn.
Floodrunner/Istigater-can you get steel wheels with the necessary offset to run 9" or 10" wide fronts? I have the black steel wheels as I think you both have/had, don't really want to run alum. because my steel gets abused enough. Want to get 27's sooner or later. Aren't the rear stock wheels offset different from the fronts? Would they work in front?
Sorry for all the ?'s, just trying to learn.
#17
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
Your rears should be fine, the fronts give the trouble. The rear rims are wider, I don't think that they will work on the front,although I have never tryed it. I don't think that spacer cause any problem on the front, if you just anted to space it out alittle. Take it from me, I had 1.5" spacers all the way around, and the rear gave many problems. I had a hard time believing that they were the issue(long story), but since I switched,no problems. Just remember inyour decision, steel rims weighs about 13lbs, and aluminum rims are about 8. I had steel wheels and spacers with 27" Mudzilla's. I now have aluminum rims with 28" Mudzilla's and these weigh less than my old setup. Even with the bigger tire.
Don't worry about the ?'s, we like to help out!
Don't worry about the ?'s, we like to help out!
#18
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
As for the axles falling ot, that is a Gorilla thing. Grizzly's did it too on the early models, but they corrected the problem, with a square cut circlip, and they hollowed out the inboard splined shaft and put a connector piece between them to keep them locked together and not allowing them to flex inside the differential and working themelves loose. Seems like that technology needs to be applied to theses as well! These axls have to be beat in and out, that square cut cir clip is a pain, but it doesn't fall out!
#19
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
Originally posted by: Instigater
Sportsman70003 has Gorilla's, but hasn't chimed in. Apperantly no problems with his. Lucky Dog[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Sportsman70003 has Gorilla's, but hasn't chimed in. Apperantly no problems with his. Lucky Dog[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Nope I still got stock axles. I'm just setting back soaking up information like a sponge.
#20
Gorilla's and 2" lift, not a good idea
Axles didn't fall out with the lift in? From what you say, more R & D before market. Thanks for reply. Aluminum sounds great with weight, but I have really beat up the Polairs steel (which I think is pretty tough compared to a few others stock), and didn't think alum. would hold up.