I got an e-mail from JBSPORTSMAN500 asking for advice on the procedure for changing both clutch springs on a Polaris. Here is my response. I welcome anyone's input as to if I told him correctly, and any shortcuts you may have (just because I did it before doesn't mean I did it the best or easiest way). Anyhow, here is my (as usual) long and likely over-detailed response to his question.It should take 15 to 20 minutes to change the front spring. Add another 15 to 20 for the rear. Basically, you have to take the left footrest off, and the belt cover. There are a bunch of bolts holding the belt cover, and on mine, one lone spring clip. It was hard to see, clear in the back behind the rear wheel. I don't know if all models have that clip, but if the cover doesn't come off easy, and you are sure you have all the bolts out, look for one (or more). It is black like the cover and hard to see.
Once you have the cover off, the front spring will explain itself. Take out the six small bolts along the outside of the pulley out, as well as the bigger center bolt. You will want to mark how the cover is oriented so you can put it back the same way it came off (to keep it in balance). I used a magic marker to put a mark from the cover to the housing it bolts to. There is a bushing on the center bolt. It won't come flying out at you, but you should know it is there. It may stay in the pulley. Now replace the spring, and put the cover back on, tightening the cover screws to 8 ft-lb and the center bolt to 40 ft-lb (according to my Clymer manual). I think the main thing is so the 6 cover bolts are tightened equally is more important than the exact torque.

Now on to the rear pulley. Remove the center bolt off the rear pulley. The pulley should come off with just a bit of 'grunt'. If it doesn't come off by hand, get a friend to help. I have had a few off and have yet to need a puller, although I came awfully close once. A small pry bar can be used from behind, but be very careful what you pry against. Pry against the metal housing, not the plastic belt cover. Don't pry so hard to bend anything. If it is really stuck, use a puller. There are specially made tools for this, but a chunk of the proper size ready-rod works well. The inside of the pulley is threaded. Find a bolt or threaded rod that matches it, and just screw it in until the pulley comes off. I wish I could tell you the bolt size, but I never needed one yet so don't know. The front is 3/4 inch fine thread, in case you ever need to take the front pulley off.
Once the pulley is off, put it in a vise (gently) or on the ground between a couple of boards. Look carefully (you may need a light) from the backside & you will see a couple little holes. The end of the spring is hooked in one of these. Note which one it is for reference. You may want to put the original back and swipe your 'improved' one when you trade machines
Now put enough pressure to just take the tension off the snap rings. A friend comes in very handy for this. You may have to twist one half of the pulley against the other in order to get enough slack. You should have him hold the pulley halves & you press against the center, right by the snap ring until it 'gives' just a little. Once this is done, remove the snap ring (while still holding the pulley halves together). Gently let the spring ease the helix out. The pulley halves will likely try to twist as it does this, and that's OK. Lift off the back cap all the way off, and look where the spring end is. Inside, there are also a couple holes, so note which one it is in. Now is a good time to check the rear buttons. They ride against the ramps of the helix. If they are worn much, you may want to reverse them. Took a Torx driver for the ones I have worked on. I would also recommend using removable thread locker on the bolts, just to be safe. If they look good, don't worry about them.
Put the spring end in whichever hole is recommended, and line up the splines to fit the pulley halves back together. There is one 'fat' spline, so it will only fit one way. get the top end of the spring lined up with whichever hole you want it in, and squeeze the pulley halves together. You will have to twist them against each other as you squeeze (make sure you twist the right way). Again, a friend is a great help with this. As soon as you get it together far enough to see the snap ring groove, put the snap ring back in, the same way it was before. A lot of people don't know it, but a snap ring holds better one way than the other. You want the pressure against the 'square' edge rather than the rounded edge (in the groove).
Put the belt over the pulley, and the pulley on the shaft, and tighten the bolt to 17 lb-ft. Clymer also recommends putting a little grease or anti-sieze on the rear shaft before you put the pulley on. Makes sense to me.
Put the cover back on, and the footrest, and you are ready to ride!

 

Hey, thanks alot for putting this where all can see it!! I printed it out(hope ya don't mind) to keep for future references when I change my clutching(just in case the kit doesn't come with directions or are to hard to understand) Thanks again!!

 

Hey Farmr123 thanks for the info it has helped out alot, just hope these springs are worth it when I ride again this weekend.

 

It should be. If you do the work yourself, I doubt there is a better modification you can make in terms of performance gained per dollar spent. The change is more dramatic on the 2 cycles, but still does some good on the 4 cycles.

 

JBsportsman500,
Where are you riding this weekend. I am thinking about going to FWP but most of the guys I ride are busy this weekend. Also, I am considering a spring change so let me know how it works.

Greg

 

Greg,
Some of the guys I ride with as well as myself will be a FWP in Longview around 9:30 or 10:00 on Sat 12-16-00 if you would like to ride with us. I will be in a white Chevy P/U and riding my Sportsman 500 (green) if you can make it email me at jason53144@aol.com.