Could be plug wires. I just got finished repairing that an an 02 700. The end caps that snap on the plugs had worn out and gotten water and mud in and ariund the connection. The moister would cause it to ark and not fire. Once it would finally start and get dried out it ran fine.

 

Hi Guys - this thread helped a ton yesterday, but I have a new issue..

Here's the history: I have a 03, sportsman 700 - its' always been tough to start in the winter, so when it wouldn't start, I figured the battery was dead. After reading up on starting problems, I decided to change the plugs and make sure the choke and throttle were ok. I changed the plugs (what a PIA I may add) it started right up! But, the idle was way up there, so I tried adjusting it down. It seems like when I go below a threshold, it wont start. To top it off, when it is running, there is gas dripping from the bowl drain and when I turn it off - it backfires everytime...

So - any thoughts or ideas? I don't know that I am up to rebuilding the carb - I have tried tightening the screw for the drain, it is tight...

Thanks!

 

There is an easy way to set the idle on a 03 sp 700. There is a Tach on these machines, but it cant be used while in gear.

To acces the tach and set the idle,

let the machine warm up.

Turn off machine and key.

Let it sit for about ten seconds.

Hold Yellow overide button for 5 seconds.

Start machine with key with one fluid motin.

This should lead to a diagnostic screne on the instrument panel.

Now you can toggle, with the yellow buttton, between battery voltage, and RPMs.

If its warm the idle should be about 1050 RPMs.

This can be adjusted by the set screw on the carb on the bottom sticking straight down.

If its leaking out th bowl it coulld be the needle and seat is shot or the bowl float may not be shutting off the flow. We just did this on friiday to a 500 carb (same carb just smaller) and it fixed the leaking problem. As far as the backfire goes it sounds like excess fuel in the exaust system or an air leak in the exaust system. Mine use to do this when I let off the gas, ended up being the exaust dognut on the front of the exaust pipe between the header and the pip. Remove two springs and replace with a new one $15.00-$20.00

Anymore questions and we would be glad to help. Trail

 

Forgot to say the machine has to be set in neutral with the parking brake set.

 

Thanks trail - I know its idling too high just by the sound! Thats great info on the diag screen...

Is there a way to tell if the float is not shuting off the flow or if the needle and seat are shot?

How hard is it to fix the needle and seat? I was looking at the carb, it looks tough to get out - is there a trick to it?

I need this machine next weekend for ice fishing, should I just take it to the dealer - or is this a fix a begginner who is a quick study able to do?

 

While to start with there are two drains on the bottom of the carb that come out of the same hole. One is from that little drain screw on the bottom of the carb to manually drain the carb bowl. Shot off the fuel and check that to make sure it is tight. That drain also leads up a shaft above the fuel or float level. If the float sticks open or is set to high the fuel will drain through the tube at the top and out the drain at the bottom of the carb.

As for working on a 700 carb I have done it many times and if you can turn a wrench you should be ok. I recomend a polaris maintenance manual. First remove seat.
air box,
side panels,
and you should be able to see carb good.
There are two fuel lines going into it, a vent tube, and two cables, one throttle, and one carb. These last two can stay on if you are just going to remove the bowl.

Remove carb mount, two nuts and two screws and intake boot clamp.

Carb upside down or on its side with the fuel off, some may still leak out, you can take out the four screws for the bowl and inspect. The float can be pressure tested ans how I check it is by putting on some fresh hose on the fuel intake line then blow it it gently. Upside down the ffloat should close off the fuel or aid comming in and you can tell if the needle and seat are bad. If it dosnt close off when the float is all the way it to the carb you may need to repalce as a set.

Might not be the best way to do things but its how I know.

 

Trailbound - THANKS!

I took it apart last night and clened it up real good with some gum out. After palying with it a bit, I thin the issue was that the choke was sticking - once I cleaned it up - I could idle it 1050 - 1090, no problem! Working on the carb was esier than replacing the plugs... The 1 question I have - in diag mode, there were 3 screens, RPM, Voltage and something about oil pressure... How should I interpret the last one? There were not any numbers or anything - just that screen.. Are there any other "hidden" diag modes available?

Thanks again,

Steve

 

Steve

Glad I could help. The last screne is for oil pressure. They put it in the instrument cluster and in my 2002 owners manual they refer to the oil pressure pickup/sensor on the engine but I have never seen a polaris with the option.

No other diagnostic modes that I know of.

I'm glad you were able to find answers on this and you were able to do it yourself.

Sorrry I forgot about the choke sticking but yea that could do it. Good information for the rest of us now. This information sharing really helps out in some tricky situations.

Any other questions, let me know.

Nick