check for loose connections or blown fuses as well..that may br why it isnt firing..

 

Compression reading may vary greatly and are not dependable on a Polaris 4 strokes. At least not on unmodified ones. Polaris motors employ a automatic mechanical compression release for easier starts. The exhaust valves will be open during a normal compression test. I doubt if compression would be a big issue. The cam or rod/piston bearing would most likely fail before the piston due to lack of oil.

 

I can't believe the cost to rebuild it would be so high. Would it cost a 1000 bucks even if the dealer did it? Granted you just don't know what's damaged yet. Maybe just the rings\cylinder...maybe the top and bottem end...maybe it spun the mains. If this is the case, I would say you're elscrewoed.

I had a similar situation where my son was riding my 500HO thru mud and crap all day and didn't know that the radiator plugged up and the fan was plugged too. Needless to say it got hot...and so did I when I found out.

 

Troubleshoot before you tear it apart.

 

If you are comfortable wrenching on it yourself you might as well pull the motor. I say that mostly because if the motor is not going to start it's not like that atv is worth more with the motor sitting in the frame then it is with the motor on the work bench. Plus, with the motor out you can tear it down and start finding out what parts need replacing and tally up the bill by going to www.partsland.com. Heck, you might be lucky and find the problem to be relatively cheap.

Without having a clue what's wrong, here iare the prices of a few of the items it might be (I did not list any gaskets you will need).

crank bearings $89
con rod $69
piston $78
ring $21
crank pin $71
cylinder $300
cam $218
___________
$846

 

How likely do these engines spin the main. I've heard horror stories of case damage but not with the fuji motors...any idea how much the cases are???

 

If the engine spins (at normal cranking speed) but won't start, I'd start by checking the valves for proper operation.
BTW, do you have spark when cranking? I'd hate to see you disassemble the engine if you merely have an electricle problem.

 

The motor cranks but not at full speed I think (120 - 200rpm) I will make sure the battery has a full charge and check the spark also. That plug sure is a pain to get to!

What size compression gage connection do I need, I notice when I looked at gages on line they had differnt sizes for different plugs of course.

I also read in a different post about using the hand pull cord to check the compression.

As far as fuses, I don't know that there are any? None in the manual anyway.

The pull cord is stiff to pull, what is this telling me? Is it indication of greater damage?

What would a new motor cost, I haven't made that call to a dealer yet, I think I am afraid of the answer.

Would I need a new cylinder or would the old one just get bored out?

A big part of me wants to just pull the motor and take it in and have the dealer do the work, I might be getting in deeper then I want since I haven?t rebuilt and motors in the past.

I also really want to pull it out and break it down to see what is wrong, not sure if I would know by looking without the experience.

I hate to see her sitting in the garage, wanting to go for a ride and I can?t.

 

i hate to say it but if it wont turn over very good or w/ the recoil then something is dragging in the engine. chances are from lack of oil it could have a minor seizure, or the mains are partly burnt and sticking. either way like i said eariler you may fix the one known problem when you get it apart but something esle can be on its way out from the excess heat built uip from lack of oil. electrical wouldnt cause it to pull over hard, valves being too tight wouldnt either.

 

man my kid would be working every weekend for the 3 years to fix it....(just kidding) but man would be pissed!!!!.. i have plipped mine afew time and it dont take long to soak the air box w/ oil