The timing sound's like it's prefect the way it start's so easy , and i'm with everone else on the part about having all the vent line's and airbox and filter installed ; because i had a small John Deere lawn and garden tractor brough into my shop once with the same symptom's just like this one !

The customer who brought to the shop told me he put a new spark plug in the engine , i asked him if he left it outside the day before he brought it to the shop ; because it had rained hard the day before and all night he said no about the Tractor !

But he said his kid's left his gas jug outside with the lid off , and he couldn't remember if he put fuel from the jug or not ; so i thought it might be water in the tank !

I removed the tank and carb and pour all the fuel from the tank and dried it out with acetone , took the carb apart and dried it out the same ; then i reassembled and started it up only to have the same result's !

Then i started to remove the spark plug to check the gap to find that it was only finger tight , i checked the gap and put the plug in and tightened to tork ; then i hit the starter it fired right up and ran perfect !

Just a loose spark plug made it loose compression , but that doesn't mean the timing isn't off a little on your quad ; only just a suggestion in this case !

I hope you get it going and it doesn't cost to much , and by the way ; how far did you have to bore the cylinder to ? Just a thought good luck with getting to the bottom of the problem ! .......

 

It's back together again, with the same results. I have no idea what is going on, this is the only quad I've ever rebuilt that has done this.

Mongrol, the high idle is due to the idle adjuster. I can turn it down and it will idle fine. When it idles and I apply choke, the engine starts racing, and sometimes I have to shut it off to get it to stop revving. I thought that was kinda of weird also...

Powerslider, I've actually pulled the flywheel off, and the key is fine. I don't think it would even fire if the key was sheared. Plus, there would be a lot of piston and valve smacking going on...

Willie, I've actually drained the gas out of the tank, cleaned the carb thoroughly, twice, and made sure the spark plug gap was correct. The gap was a little off, but it was nothing to keep the engine from running normally. I wish I could say that a loose spark plug was my problem in this situation, but I know the plug isn't loose.

I don't know what else to try. I've taken pretty much EVERYTHING off of it to be checked. Nothing has worked. I've come to a conclusion though, as far as I can tell, the engine is running perfect, it's not missing or anything like that. I can tell by pulling the choke and hearing the engine rev faster. It runs perfectly. I'm doubting now that it has anything to do with the motor, and if it does, I'll be very surprised. I'm thinking more along the lines of a carb problem. I just don't really know what all can go wrong with carbs, so I don't really know what to check and where to start.

When I apply gas, the motor completely stops. It seems like a bog, but the motor just completely gives out...

 

Unplug the etc at the throttle housing just to eliminate that possibility and for proper fuel flow to the carb from the tank, next find the fuel bowl drain hose and position it pointing up beside the carb and open the drain screw. The fuel should rise into the hose indicating where the fuel level is in the carb bowl, it should be near the bowl/carb body seam. If all is well then lets get into the carb. What is the plug color? The 06's were lean on the pilot circuit to start with so you may need to bump that up, take the carb off the quad and on the bottom (engine side of the bowl) you will see a brass plug that covers the idle mixture screw. Drill a small hole in the plug and use a screw to pull it out, don't drill too deep though. The plug is about an 1/8" thick, set the screw from lightly seated to 3 1/2 turns out. Take the cover off the slide diaphram, note the spring on top of the slide. Remove the diaphram and check the white spring seat, should be on top of the needle clip, another white spacer should be under the clip also. Make sure the clip is on the needle and at what position it is, the very bottom clip groove on the needle is where it should be. Check the diaphram for splits or holes, remove the bowl and check the main jet number (147.5) making sure the main jet and starter jets are in the right places, the main is located closest to the float needle and the starter jet is closest to the mixture screw. Remove the pilot jet and make sure all are clear and the carb body also.

Make sure the fuel hoses from the fuel pump are on the carb in the right positions, the filter goes on the left side fitting. The other hose is the vacuum pulse to operate the pump.

 

I did have the carb apart, so I did play with the mixture screw and needle positions. I tried richening up the mixture a little. From what I could tell, after drilling the brass plug out, the screw was fully seated. So, I turned it out about 1 1/2 turns. So, I'll try the 3 1/2. I'm pretty sure the clip on the needle was positioned on slot 2 from the top. I think I remember moving it down one notch to richen it up a little on that too. I'll move it to the bottom. I had the main and pilot jets out, along with the float pin needle to clean them all. I'm not sure about the starter jet though, but I probably removed it to clean it also. The hoses on the filter are on right, because I haven't removed but one, and that was the one going from the tank. I'll try theses things and let her rip again.

I forgot to tell you guys who are helping me out, thank you. I know I've been posting a lot, but I just want this thing to run right for the sake of my cousin. I really appreciate you guys giving me these detailed replies to try to help me get it running right...

 

The build date will affect the stock carb settings, after 3/7 the main jet is a 140 I believe and the stock needle clip setting was the 3rd notch from the top of the needle. The date will be on a decal above the right front tire.

The cam was ok for sure????

 

The fact of it reving when you pull the choke tells me that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. By doing that, you cut down on the air intake and increased fuel. I wish I could be more specific, but try the easy stuff first.

Generally speaking, the simplest explanation tends to be the correct one. Did you try squirting any areas of potential air leaks with either fluids that were suggested?

 

The choke/enrichener adds fuel and air but it seems for whatever reason it's very lean....

 

I think I finally got it guys. It was definately a carb problem. The jetting on it was screwed up, so I played around with the needle positions and got it running well enough to ride around and test. It's running really good now, I just need to richen up the pilot or main jet or both. It does stumble a little right off-idle, which I'm pretty sure is due to a lean pilot. The jetting stock on this one was: 3rd clip from the top, 147.5 main, and I'm not sure on the pilot as I didn't look, but I know it's lean. I'm at around a half of a turn to about a whole turn out on the mixture screw. I'm so relieved to finally have it running. Were the 2006 models recalled because of the jetting?

 

Bet that's a load of your shoulders?

 

Well some dealers were drilling holes in the airbox and installing pull-out plugs in there!!!....LOL.....LOL....................This was to help with different riding conditions.......Above sea level!!!!...............Caper..................... most riders thought this was not the correct fix!!!!!....LOL...