Okay, bought a 2000 Trail Blazer 250 for my son. Just finished replacing the plastic lower steering column support. Now onto gas leak problems

Issue #1 It appears that I am leaking fuel at the pet ****, took the tank out and noticed a bunch of debris on the intake screens (not related to my issue, but bad anyway). Pet **** seems to be working well though, leaving the issue to apparently be the gasket between the petcock and the tank, or the hose connection at petcock output. So I cut the end of the hose for a clean surface, put on new clamp, still have leak. Gasket looks good. Has anyone had this problem?

Issue #2 Starter, when it works, it sounds really load. Wondered if this was normal. Then frequently it won't turn over the motor, just get a load click in the back under the seat. I assume there is a solidnoid back there, but I can't localize where the sound is coming from. Battery only charges to abut 13.4 volts, so pretty sure I need to replace that. Even with the charger on at boost, it still just clicks.

Issue #3 Because of issue #2 above I am frequently using the pull cord, which just last night ripped in half. When I get the replacement pull cord, is there a special technique for putting in on? The broken one would not go all the way back in until the engine was running for a few minutes. Also is this a Polaris rope, or will the hardware store variety work?

Thanks for your experiences

 

I had to totally replace my petcock because of a leak.

My starter does the same thing, it finally stopped working totally, my battery drops to 9v when i try to start, I replaced the battery and still does not start.

The stock Polaris pull cord is only good for about 20 starts and then it breaks, I carry extra rope and tools, yes there is a special way to replace it, after you wind the rope back on you have to rotate the whole housing 5 times, then bolt it back on, when you do that it puts tension on the spring inside, thats how it pulls the cord back in.

I have the polaris repair manual and i can scan and email you page for replacing the cord if you want.

 

you guys both need to pull your starter motor disassemble and clean the gunk out , this is one of the most common polaris problem i hear about, the only way to fix it is to clean it all out, its easy. and if the brushes are bad replace them

 

my starter is only 6 months old, its a pain to take off and on, you have to pull the clutch just to get to one of the starter bolts, and since i put this starter on, it has not been in any water.

but your right i do need to pull it off and look at it but its a pain.

 

The problem is the junk builds up and corrodes the brushes and communtator because it's not drained out when it gets in the water. Anytime you get the TB in the water you need to drain it out with the drain screw on the bottom. If you don't, you'll be pulling the starter apart and/or replacing it far more than you want to. Been there, done that. Since I've started draining the water after any water ride, no problems. Trust me.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Blacksheep5

my starter is only 6 months old, its a pain to take off and on, you have to pull the clutch just to get to one of the starter bolts,

 

oops heres the rest

You should be able to get that bolt without removing the clutch and if you can't i'd let the other three hold it and forget that one when reassembling my 400 has that hidden bolt too (not sure if its the same but...) i get mine about a 1/16 of a turn at a time still easier than clutch removal

i was in deep water the day i wrecked and my quad sat for 2 months in time out b4 i fixed it or even washed it (one wheel was completly gone) but that was the first time a haven't washed it after riding ever! and when i went to hit the starter after repairs were complete and it just clicked , i usually need to remove/clean once a year, this is the second time so far

 

thats a good idea, i wont put that bolt back in when i re-assemble

 

UMM, so now I am trying to remove my starter, have pulled every bolt in site and the starter still is tight to the motor. Given the discussion here, I assume it means I now have to pull the clutch cover and clutch to get to the last bolt? Anyone printed instructions for that? This is where I start to wonder where the design team was, putting a starter motor out in harms way like that, and making it a pain to get to.

 

there are bolts on the back of the starter up against the back of the PVT cover, the only way i could see it (with out taking cover off) was to stand the quad on its rear and get a ratchet wrench in there but when you back the bolt out it hits the rear PVT cover and you cant take it out all the way.

so you have to remove all the bolts/screws holding the PVT cover on and then you have to use clutch pullers to pull the secondary and main clutch and then take the screws out that hold the rear cover to the motor and then pull off the rear cover and you can get to that starter bolt. I used the clutch pullers from the local dealer, they let me use them for a few hours.