Alright, so the repairs continue and i have yet another question ..thank god for the internet..

The rear Prop-Shaft as they call it ( Drive shaft ) u-joints are worn to crapola, the joint closest to the gearcase is the worst..

I notice what looks like a PIN or a set-screw, not sure, is there a trick to removing this pin ? just hammer it out ? any spcial care required not to damage the bearings or gears etc ?

I called the local dealer and it's 50 $ for the kit, the cross, clips, and i think the Pin comes with it, going to pick it up tomorrow night.

I got one of the clips out, but the other 3 are still on, this would be mucho easier on the bench than on the bike.. once the pin comes out will the whole shaft slide out of the bike or do i have to take the rear end off ?

Any help would be greatly apreciated ! thanks !

 

ahhh my specailty....
use an air hammer to remove pin.

My rear prop shaft U-joints nearest the trans were shot bad and the one nearest the rear diff. seems to be good and tight still.

...I ended up getting the correct replacement part # 1-0170 that crossed to the # 338 at a Car Quest store. The # 1501 and # 338 was not available at most the other places including NAPA, as it is special order only.
Apparently some of the stores more in the rural areas that carry implement replacement parts carries them like the Car Quest store I went to.

The rear prop shaft U-joint correct cap diameters are .938" and the distance between the cap base (clip area) or yoke ears is 1.500".
The # 1501 and # 338 are both listed with these same dimensions.

this is for a 2002 sp700


see here ....

http://smg.photobucket.com/alb...20rear%20prop%20shaft/
--U joints replacement photos

http://www.atvfrontier.com/For.../p=165575.html#165575

--post

 

Awwwwwsome !!! thank you sir !!!

I actually found that post thru google this morning !! lol..

Does it matter wich way you knock the pin out from ? other than that the rest should be easy enough. ( yeah.. right )

 

Aight.. got it done tonight.

the pins popped right out, and fell apart in pieces.

Knocked out the caps and removed the cross, pressed new parts in, reassembled...

The Roll-Pin that Polaris sold me was the wrong size( or my shaft has been drilled out ?? )

I found some nuts and bolts that fit in there and bolted it down until i get the right pins.

Good and tight.. way better !!!!

Then while being at the whole operation, i dove into my hard-to-shift problem..

Disconected the pivot arm, removed bolts on the sub-tranny/gear shift assembly cover and I found my problem !!!!!!

The whole thing was full of rust ( the splined brass shaft that exits the case cover.. ) cleaned and greased, then found a pile of silicone inside the cover all over the pivot arm and spring, i suspect the spring was not even in the right spot !!! ..


Shifts like a beauty now !!!!