YEAH WHAT I'M SAYING IS THEY SHOULD'NT GET TOO HOT ALITTLE NOT ALOT+IF YOU FEEL THEM AFTER A FAST RIDE+THEY ARE BURNING HOT THEY MIGHT END UP LOCKING UP ON YOU WHEN YOU DON'T WANT THEM TO......... I'F THEY CONTINUE TO JUST GET WARM OR JUST ALITTLE HOT MIGHT BE OK FOR NOW,

 

I ran up the road today at about 40 to 50 miles per hour and felt of the hubs, they were cool to the touch. I only went about a mile or so, I don't know if that is enough to get them warmed up, but I figured at that speed at that distance it would build up some heat if things were too bad. I think that after all that work putting some grease in the bearings I will run them for a little while. The front wheels are a little shaky, but I have seen worse. I figure that there is a quater of an inch play in them. When I do go to change the bearings how do I get those axles out of the hubs without damage. I don't know if yall read my other post "wheel bearings" but I beat on the cv to get it out and wound up having to take it to the machine shop to get the threads corrected. Thanks for all the help.

 

I hope this is okay. I just wanted to bump this through one more time. If doing this is frowned upon please let me know. Thanks

 

yeah you really should not have that much play,i would tighten it up+check the hubs then.......

 

Well I got some helpful info. for you other gooroo's out there. I found a cure for the stuck cv's. I went ahead and changed out the front wheel bearings this week. To get those stubborn cv's out you can't hit the stud for it is hollow and you will tear it up.(been there done that.) I took a small punch and put it through the hollow end of the stud until it touched solid stud and hit it a few times and it came right out. If you don't know what I am talking about look at your axle nut and carter pin and you will see that the carter pin is visiable all the way through the stud.(hollow) After changing out the wheel bearings with the help from this forum(thanks) I slid the hub back on the cv without putting the cv back throungh the strut so that I could see what was holding it so tightly. It went up on the splines with no trouble but when it got to the smoother fater part of the shaft it got sticky. I had to tap it back off with a hammer. I took some emery or imery or imry or emry cloth(like sand paper for metal) and kept running it around in the hub to shave it down a bit and just kept trying it out to see if it would fit. (The smooth part not the splines) I cleaned everyting out really good with some grease lighting, wire brush, rags, and air compressor. I slid the hub up and down on the cv shaft with ease. Problem solved. I greased the splines up really good and put it all back together and then took off the axle nut again just to see, and everything came loose with no problems. Hope this helps for future trouble. I beleive that the heat from the bad wheel bearings was what did it, so don't let them get away from you.

 

Thanks for the info Gooroo. That emery cloth works really good on spinning metal parts, too. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I'm not suggesting you rev up the quad to do the spindle or brake discs, but anything I can chuck in my 1/2" drill motor is clean and shiny.

 

I think that it is amazing stuff. It looks to me like screen for strom doors or something but it will shave some metal. If you like to shine things I have found a mild acid that will make a mud stained engine look knew without any work, just spay a lite even mist wait about five minutes and hose it off and it is amazing. Most people use it for pontoons. It is called alluminum brightner. One gallon costs about 15 dollars though. You can get it from NAPA or Carquest.

 

I use regular emery cloth. It looks like about a 9x12 grey piece of cloth with a reddish brown powdery look on one side. You can also get plumbers tape which is a long roll an inch or so wide and MUCH coarser. It's for cleaning up the ends of copper pipes before you solder them. That comes in handy where you need a small piece of sandpaper and it doesn't get torn up like paper does.

The tool and die makers at work use that screen type of stuff. I think 3M makes it but have no idea what they call it. It's like an industrial strength scrubber for restaraunt grills too. When they make the dies to stamp out car parts they have to be very smooth or it will rip the thin sheet metal apart instead of forming it. If a die wears out or breaks they have to weld on it to build it back up then grind it down again. Sometimes these guys spend all day laying inside a 2,000 ton stamping press sanding the dies with that screen stuff, and then running a part to check for high spots, then more sanding. Grand Blanc, MI is now one of the world's top automotive die making centers. Too bad they got rid of all the production work and don't need people like me anymore.

Life sucks, then your job moves overseas. I'm done rambling. Thanks for putting up with me.