Yea maybe I will do what you are doing Stendori.
What kind of part was it that I need? I remember
you found them at the Hardware store for like
around $25 right? But are you talking about putting
them on the back cuz I know you mentioned you have
them in front.

Thanks,

R'

 

Here is what I do: Go to your local autoparts store and buy two of the longest hoseclamps you can find. You might have to buy four, and gang them together in series. Take the male end of one of the hoseclamps and slip it under the coil of the spring that is closest to the bottom. keep inserting it. The end of the hose clamp should travel up the inside of the spring. You will have to guide it along. When it reaches the top of the spring, guide it out over the top of the coil, back to the outside of the spring. Bend the end down, and reconnect it to the female end of the hoseclamp. So now you have a complete oval around most of the coils on one side of the spring. Repeat this process 180 degrees away, on the oposite side of the same spring. Now, put a 5/16" socket in your cordless drill, and tighten each side a little at a time. You can completely unload the adjuster, and you will be able to turn it by hand (if it's not stuck with corrosion ofr mud.) As stated earlier, a little WD-40 really helps here. Turn adjuster, release hose clamps, and you are done. Hope this helps.

 

i just cranked them up on my 500x2. i used a 15/16 box wrench over the handle on the spanner that came with the kit for leverage. no lifting off the ground or removing tires, just did one click at a time. dealer said to wd-40 that adjustment nut often

 

Okay I have a pretty good idear on
what I need to do, anyone with close
up pics though so I be 100% sure of
what I am doing? Like can you see when
its up a notch or is it just that the
compressed springs got tighter?

Thanks,

R'

 

You can see the slight grooves in the adjuster. Once its set , you will now. It will set in place.

 

r'
just make sure that your on that "square" if your using that spanner tool that should have came in your kit.. if not you might tweak it a little (the tool).. and for being able to tell what level your on there should be a stair step on the adjuster that shows where your at

 

Once the rear frame is up on blocks it lets a lot of weight off the springs and makes it easier to turn. I've never heard of anyone compressing the springs with anything until this thread. Everyone I know just uses a spanner with a cheater handle to turn it, or whacks the spanner with a hammer if they don't have a good cheater handy. Like I said earlier I could turn mine one-handed with a nice long handle. Try a foot and a half or two foot pipe. Taking the tires off gives you room to turn it. If you're having trouble finding the right size spanner get an adjustable spanner, but be careful because they slip off easier.

 

Jacked mine up wd40'd & used the spanner for my sled shocks.

 

does anyone have pictures of adjusting the rear suspension? i am not the most mechanically inclinded person out there, i need to see it done first before i attempt something. and i don't want to screw it up and end up paying someone else to fix my mistakes. thanks guys.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: RticKwad

Good info. I appreciate the responses.

So if I don't have those snazzy "spring

compressors" what do I use? Seems like

abit of a pain to adjust these things?



I just need to get more rear clearance

and with my weight I am bottoming

them abit (SP800). So if going one notch helps

then I will do, IF NOT, then I just may

leave as is. -- OPINIONS?



Regards,



R'</end quote></div>

If you ever have to ride an elephant, he may have to just crawl around on his knees. lol, jk, lol, jk.