Welcome to the group!

About sliding/drifting/etc., do you actually need extra braking for that? I like to slide around a bit, and I find that all I need to do is enter the corner a little hot, let off the gas to lighten the rear end, and at the same time steer/jerk it into the corner. EBS provides the braking and the rear end pitches out very easily. Then its just countersteering and throttle on how much or how long you want to keep sliding.

 

I ease off the gas going into the curve, shift my weight, then start hammering it. I slide all 1,000 + pounds around pretty good. And I do other stuff my brother told me you can't do on a 4x4 Sportsman. I've always been satisfied with the stock set-up.

 

easing off the throttle usually works on my Sportsman, but every once and a while youll have that outside tire that wants to stay planted. ive found that hitting the service brakes a hard will put you in a skid for a second, then the throttle is applied... this short braking period is when the extra braking is needed. i ride extremely aggresive. im not sure how much fire roads yall ride, but i love to blaze down them and pitch the rear end out real wide on the corners. most of the mud holes, mostly peat bog, have fire roads in between them.

 

you are 100% incorrect. My 06 700 twin had the bosses and holes tapped in the left spindle. I bought a standard caliper, and installed it with a couple of simple brake line splitters, and a couple of pre fabbed brake lines. Worked mint. The hand brake will now lock up the rears before the front, and you can get the *** end to slide way easier. Also stops the ca-chunk, ca-chunk noises when one rear wheel wants to move a bit, while the other side is locked up. Helped immensely with braking distance…. And the ability to actually stop when descending steep hills. The master cylinder is the weak spot as stated. I had amazing foot brakes for about 2 days, then they started to fade. I’m going to try the touring rear master, and see if that fares any better.